spark plugs
#11
I'm doing mine right now, just got em all cracked loose and now they're soaking in kroil.
That passenger rear one was a birch to get the right size extensions on.
On the drivers side the back 3 had oil in the wells so I spent an hour cleaning that out before I cracked em loose. I think the oil is coming from the top of one of the wells on the head.
I found part of a rubber gasket that was torn up on the 3td plug back. How the Hell am I supposed to fix that? It looks like its part of the head. My idea right now is to clean it the best I can and then use gasket sealer to hopefully seal it up.
That passenger rear one was a birch to get the right size extensions on.
On the drivers side the back 3 had oil in the wells so I spent an hour cleaning that out before I cracked em loose. I think the oil is coming from the top of one of the wells on the head.
I found part of a rubber gasket that was torn up on the 3td plug back. How the Hell am I supposed to fix that? It looks like its part of the head. My idea right now is to clean it the best I can and then use gasket sealer to hopefully seal it up.
#12
Senior Member
I disagree . I would put anti seize and definitely blow the holes with air
#13
Senior Member
I'm doing mine right now, just got em all cracked loose and now they're soaking in kroil.
That passenger rear one was a birch to get the right size extensions on.
On the drivers side the back 3 had oil in the wells so I spent an hour cleaning that out before I cracked em loose. I think the oil is coming from the top of one of the wells on the head.
I found part of a rubber gasket that was torn up on the 3td plug back. How the Hell am I supposed to fix that? It looks like its part of the head. My idea right now is to clean it the best I can and then use gasket sealer to hopefully seal it up.
That passenger rear one was a birch to get the right size extensions on.
On the drivers side the back 3 had oil in the wells so I spent an hour cleaning that out before I cracked em loose. I think the oil is coming from the top of one of the wells on the head.
I found part of a rubber gasket that was torn up on the 3td plug back. How the Hell am I supposed to fix that? It looks like its part of the head. My idea right now is to clean it the best I can and then use gasket sealer to hopefully seal it up.
Your probably burning oil , I wouldn't worry about it for awhile . Something I'd repair around 200k
#14
Just duct tape it!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central OR
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Disagree all ya want, its not recommended with MC plugs. They are nickel coated. Adding anti-sieze will mess with the torque reading on the plug as well and give it more slip to back out of the head.
http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm
http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm
- Q: Why do you prefer 28-32 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?
A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with 10 other Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 28 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.
- Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs?
A: No, we always use Motorcraft nickel plated spark plugs to stop any issues with electrolysis.
#15
Senior Member
Disagree all ya want, its not recommended with MC plugs. They are nickel coated. Adding anti-sieze will mess with the torque reading on the plug as well and give it more slip to back out of the head.
http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm
http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm
- Q: Why do you prefer 28-32 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?
A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with 10 other Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 28 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder
head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.
- Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs?
A: No, we always use Motorcraft nickel plated spark plugs to stop any issues
with electrolysis.
Correct I will disagree
For the fact that I work at a shop and my truck and I know what happe ns
The dealer doesn't even torque them as I know a friend that's the lead tech there
Not gonna argue , it's what we knowledged people with fords believe
Yes put anti seize on they last longer
Do your way and I'll do mine .. Answered questions online are not as satisfying as experience to me
#16
Sorry, I was refering to the 03 and older that took that amount of time. I work at the city garage on their patrol cars so I've done alot spark plug changes on the mod motor since they came out in 93, I take for granted that the next guy may have never done the job and gets intimidated. The newer triton engines with the worse than before plug design do take quite awhile to do. I have used antiseize since day one, maybe I shouldn't and I tighten the plugs tight, just guessing 50ftlbs and haven't had one blow out yet (knock on wood). It may be wrong how I do it but it has worked for me.
#17
Senior Member
Sorry, I was refering to the 03 and older that took that amount of time. I work at the city garage on their patrol cars so I've done alot spark plug changes on the mod motor since they came out in 93, I take for granted that the next guy may have never done the job and gets intimidated. The newer triton engines with the worse than before plug design do take quite awhile to do. I have used antiseize since day one, maybe I shouldn't and I tighten the plugs tight, just guessing 50ftlbs and haven't had one blow out yet (knock on wood). It may be wrong how I do it but it has worked for me.
#18
welll finally had time to do my plugs, only took me about 5 hours. a couple of them were very tough and rusted in pretty good. and one really tough to get at. removed three fuel rails made it much easier to get at. thanks again for all the tips. now on to other things i need to figure out how to fix. squeaky seat belts, chirping noise coming from my serpentine belt pulleys, some kind of loud rattling noise coming from under neath close to my fuel filter. moister in one of my back tail lights, what else!!! lol