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Old 02-13-2012, 01:12 PM
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I'm doing mine right now, just got em all cracked loose and now they're soaking in kroil.
That passenger rear one was a birch to get the right size extensions on.
On the drivers side the back 3 had oil in the wells so I spent an hour cleaning that out before I cracked em loose. I think the oil is coming from the top of one of the wells on the head.
I found part of a rubber gasket that was torn up on the 3td plug back. How the Hell am I supposed to fix that? It looks like its part of the head. My idea right now is to clean it the best I can and then use gasket sealer to hopefully seal it up.
Old 02-14-2012, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jspansel
Do not put antisieze on threads. Recommended torque to 28 ft/lb dry. You do.t want them loosening up and blowing out the head which is common. Use motorcraft which are nickel coating I believe. And if you can do it in 45 mins you are a god then...
I disagree . I would put anti seize and definitely blow the holes with air
Old 02-14-2012, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by B Chappy
I'm doing mine right now, just got em all cracked loose and now they're soaking in kroil.
That passenger rear one was a birch to get the right size extensions on.
On the drivers side the back 3 had oil in the wells so I spent an hour cleaning that out before I cracked em loose. I think the oil is coming from the top of one of the wells on the head.
I found part of a rubber gasket that was torn up on the 3td plug back. How the Hell am I supposed to fix that? It looks like its part of the head. My idea right now is to clean it the best I can and then use gasket sealer to hopefully seal it up.

Your probably burning oil , I wouldn't worry about it for awhile . Something I'd repair around 200k
Old 02-14-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Nos
I disagree . I would put anti seize and definitely blow the holes with air
Disagree all ya want, its not recommended with MC plugs. They are nickel coated. Adding anti-sieze will mess with the torque reading on the plug as well and give it more slip to back out of the head.

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm
  1. Q: Why do you prefer 28-32 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?
    A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with 10 other Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 28 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.
  2. Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs?
    A: No, we always use Motorcraft nickel plated spark plugs to stop any issues with electrolysis.
Old 02-14-2012, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jspansel
Disagree all ya want, its not recommended with MC plugs. They are nickel coated. Adding anti-sieze will mess with the torque reading on the plug as well and give it more slip to back out of the head.

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm
  1. Q: Why do you prefer 28-32 foot lbs torque instead of the factory specification?
    A: Over the past few years we have heard from many of our customers that they tightened their plugs to the correct torque but they still came loose. We worked with 10 other Ford Certified Master Mechanics and concluded that 28 foot lbs of torque would be satisfactory. We have been using 28 foot lbs of torque for many years and have never had one come loose or strip out. To verify that we would not damage the original threads we used a test cylinder
    head with good factory threads we applied over 100 foot lbs of torque to the spark plug without any failure.
  2. Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs?
    A: No, we always use Motorcraft nickel plated spark plugs to stop any issues
    with electrolysis.

Correct I will disagree

For the fact that I work at a shop and my truck and I know what happe ns

The dealer doesn't even torque them as I know a friend that's the lead tech there

Not gonna argue , it's what we knowledged people with fords believe
Yes put anti seize on they last longer

Do your way and I'll do mine .. Answered questions online are not as satisfying as experience to me
Old 02-15-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jspansel
Do not put antisieze on threads. Recommended torque to 28 ft/lb dry. You do.t want them loosening up and blowing out the head which is common. Use motorcraft which are nickel coating I believe. And if you can do it in 45 mins you are a god then...
Sorry, I was refering to the 03 and older that took that amount of time. I work at the city garage on their patrol cars so I've done alot spark plug changes on the mod motor since they came out in 93, I take for granted that the next guy may have never done the job and gets intimidated. The newer triton engines with the worse than before plug design do take quite awhile to do. I have used antiseize since day one, maybe I shouldn't and I tighten the plugs tight, just guessing 50ftlbs and haven't had one blow out yet (knock on wood). It may be wrong how I do it but it has worked for me.
Old 02-16-2012, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 69ss
Sorry, I was refering to the 03 and older that took that amount of time. I work at the city garage on their patrol cars so I've done alot spark plug changes on the mod motor since they came out in 93, I take for granted that the next guy may have never done the job and gets intimidated. The newer triton engines with the worse than before plug design do take quite awhile to do. I have used antiseize since day one, maybe I shouldn't and I tighten the plugs tight, just guessing 50ftlbs and haven't had one blow out yet (knock on wood). It may be wrong how I do it but it has worked for me.
Thank you ^^
Old 03-12-2012, 06:45 PM
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welll finally had time to do my plugs, only took me about 5 hours. a couple of them were very tough and rusted in pretty good. and one really tough to get at. removed three fuel rails made it much easier to get at. thanks again for all the tips. now on to other things i need to figure out how to fix. squeaky seat belts, chirping noise coming from my serpentine belt pulleys, some kind of loud rattling noise coming from under neath close to my fuel filter. moister in one of my back tail lights, what else!!! lol



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