01-22-2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Issue: Is your F-150’s engine idling loudly?
The eight cylinder engines are notorious for this due to the cam phasers. For the unaware, cam phasers are responsible for adjusting the camshaft position to improve fuel injection into the cylinders, which leads to better fuel efficiency when idling and the ability to draw power from the engine more quickly. However, after anywhere from 60,000-100,000 miles, they also cause rough, loud idling due to wear and tear.
While the cause can typically be linked to the cam phasers, solutions to the problem vary widely. Some of the top recommendations include:
Read the full thread to find out which of these solutions is best for your truck.
The eight cylinder engines are notorious for this due to the cam phasers. For the unaware, cam phasers are responsible for adjusting the camshaft position to improve fuel injection into the cylinders, which leads to better fuel efficiency when idling and the ability to draw power from the engine more quickly. However, after anywhere from 60,000-100,000 miles, they also cause rough, loud idling due to wear and tear.
While the cause can typically be linked to the cam phasers, solutions to the problem vary widely. Some of the top recommendations include:
- While the noise is annoying, the cam phaser itself isn’t actually breaking. If you can live with it, your F-150 will be fine.
- If the truck is under warranty, bring it to the dealership.
- It’s possible they may need to either replace the cam phasers, or even the cam phasers and camshaft as well.
- Install a coil spring behind each cam phaser to reduce the rattle as it moves.
- Swap the cam phasers from a larger engine so that it sits more tightly, reducing the rattle.
Read the full thread to find out which of these solutions is best for your truck.
5.4L cam phasers.. What goes bad?
02-02-2012, 09:37 PM
#71
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you guys are going to laugh at me but I solved this problem after building 20 or so 3v's and that act like this after warm up,Drop the oil pan as far as you can unscrew the pressure releaf valve and insert 4 or 5 washers to hold the valve open then re assemble this boosts oil pressure in the top end making the phasers work correctly!enjoy
02-13-2012, 11:09 PM
#74
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Well I drove it and it's exactly the same. however I just had a real head slap moment. I think I didn't put the washers where Jamie recommended. You can see where I placed my washer (at this point I am 99% sure in the wrong place) I think he was suggesting actually putting the washers up in the bore. Which effectively puts more preload on the spring, where as I put less. The issue I would have with this is it would be really hard to get it back together, as it took about 15 tries this way to get the allen bolt to thread. it's not any better but its also not any worse. So I'll leave it for a few thousand miles so as not to waste all that mobil 1
02-14-2012, 07:37 PM
#76
Ryan
I have a 2006 5.4 with 72K on it, and I think my phasers are going. The ticking is getting louder and i'm starting to notice a shutter around 600-1100 rpm.. Question is, assuming its the phasers, how much are people being charged at Ford to get this fixed? Thanks guys.
02-17-2012, 07:16 PM
#77
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Dropped the pan again and redid jamie's fix the right way. I tell ya, it is harder than he made it sound. I did it on a lift in a garage this time thinking it'd be easier. And it is tough. There is no way a normal person could put multiple washers in there and get it to thread. I used one (about 5mm in thickness) and it took a frustrating hour to get it to thread, occasionally it would shoot all the parts out when in slipped. After driving it, it did not work, still sounds like a diesel when warm.
So I guess I'll deal with it. As for recommending this to others, I certainly would NOT. May help for preventing it, but if you already got the noise save the trouble. I even had the oil pan all the way off and out of the way.
So I guess I'll deal with it. As for recommending this to others, I certainly would NOT. May help for preventing it, but if you already got the noise save the trouble. I even had the oil pan all the way off and out of the way.
02-17-2012, 10:13 PM
#78
Senior Member
been tempted to try the oil pump thing but haven't yet > I got a MMr oil pan off my cobra I'm tempted to put on the trucl, but I have a bad phaser diesal problem and the dealer wants $1300 to replace them . kinda steep considering the phasers are only $500> for $700 I'll do them my self
03-06-2012, 07:28 PM
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cam phasers
I am having the same problem with my 2006 f-150 fx4 5.4L 96000 miles, I bought the truck new and never had a problem, about 2 months ago every time i hit the gas hard, like to get off a ramp onto the highway it would pop and get slugish, the mil would flash and it felt like my 4 wheel drive was engaged. I would feather the gas until the light went out and would drive ok unless you mashed the gas. So i figured that it was close to getting new plugs so i ventured into a nightmare there but got threw it. Did not fix the problem so. It kept coming up missfire on # 3 and bank 2 running lean, so I went and got a new coil pack and 2 injectors and a fuel filter, put the pack on 3 and the injector. Still no fix, so I took to the dealer the put on computer and said missing on 1 thru 4 and that the vct soleniod was clogged and it needed the cam gears replaced. So I bought 2 new solenoids and installed them no change, the dealer said it would not leave me stranded any where. So I had it out and took it by another mechanic to see what they found. By the way the dealer said $2000 to fix. So the other mechanic took it for a ride and came back and said he barely made it back and showed me it was missing on all but #7. didnt charge for the test and said he wasnt sure what was causing it and it took abot 45 minutes to get home 3 miles away no power at all just bareley made it home. So my truck is sitting in my drive way still making payments and when you start it cold it is some what ok but when it gets warm idles like crap wont stay running on its on and if shuts off hard to get started again, Sorry for long post but wanted you all to know the whole story so you could help me in diagnosing this. I am a pretty good mechanic and can put just about any part on but never had to diagnose this kind of problem. Oh i am not hearing the rapping that every one else is. please help if you can. TYVM 
Last edited by twthomas1; 03-06-2012 at 07:44 PM. Reason: missing words
03-06-2012, 07:52 PM
#80
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Here is a little tip. Mine did the same thing. Mine was a culmination of 4 things. Spark plugs, coils, 2 vacuum lines had holes and all injectors had a bunch of debris inside them. Just take off the fuel rail, unplugg the injectors, pull them out, and using a paper towel, turn upside down and tap them on the paper towel and you will see all the defrost coming out. Then reinstall them, and watch how well it runs again.