picaflor

im reading about this online here ( i know is not a ford engine website, but helps to understand the problem... im not sure it it will be applicable in our engines ).... by the way, from what i understand here, if you check compression you may be able to find a difference if a valve is sticking:

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182894-1.html

some information that could be bad news:
What happens whan a valve sticks?

When an engine has a stuck valve, one of five things can happen, each of which is bad news:

1. The pushrod bends.
2. The surface of the camshaft or cam follower fails.
3. The valve opens but won't close.
4. The rocker support breaks.
5. The valve rotator cap falls off the end of the valve stem. (Lycomings only.)

maybe some good news:

Remedial action

Repairing a stuck valve can be done without removing the cylinder from the engine. The procedure is described in Lycoming Service Instruction 1425 and consists of dropping the valve into the combustion chamber, reaming the guide, and then reinstalling the valve.
Another method is to tie dental floss to the end of the exhaust valve and lower it down into the cylinder. Ream the guide and then pull the valve back up into the guide.
If it's necessary to remove the cylinder, we recommend you inspect the condition of the camshaft lobes and the cam follower. You may want to review the operating environment of the engine. Pay particular attention to the oil change intervals, baffle condition, and operating techniques.
The procedure outlined in Lycoming Service Instruction 1425 and described here can also be used on Continental engines.
Do not use Marvel Mystery Oil or other solvents to un-stick a valve. Solvents may un-stick the valve in time but not immediately. Eventually the valve may un-stick, but not before your camshaft lobes have been damaged.
Solvent treatments dissolve the outer deposit layers in the guide boss and temporarily un-stick the valve. The remaining deposits push the valve over to the opposite side of the guide and cause rapid, uneven guide wear. The valve stem may stick or it may cause rapid guide wear where the stem is forced against the guide material opposite of the deposit buildup.

sanike

At this poing not sure if I should pull the heads and send them off, replace the valves myself along with the timing chains and tensioners or replace the motor with a rebuilt or low mileage one. The main or next question is since the heads gotta come off along with the the timing chains - is it easier to hoist the body straight up out of the way to get to everything or pull the motor. I have the facilities overhead to hold the body up and out of the way but am I asking for more trouble pulling the body over pulling the motor? Also - is it better to replace the valves and timing chain tensioners and chains or send the heads off / replace the heads and the chain stuff or just bite off the 1300 to 1900 for a rebuilt motor with a warranty? Any suggestions from the experienced bunch of yall who has so far been a wonderful world of help.

westtnfx4

I didn't read threw all the posts here but what kind of oil filter you using? Please tell me it's not Fram...

sanike

Looks like I'm gonna pull the heads and have them completly reworked and put the rest of the new stuff on them that isn't all ready on there , except for the cams. Also gonna put new chain tensioners and a new oil pump since it is all in there in that area also. I was also gonna go with a 170 deg temp thermostat. Was looking around and also considering a set of ceramic headers. There is all ready a flowmaster exhaust system and k&n filter on it. I'm not trying to built a race car and gas mileage is more important to me over horsepower. Is there any other low cost things to do to this while it is apart to maybe increase the gas mileage or what horsepower gaining things should I steer clear of that will kill the gas mileage. Does one of those throttle body spacers help as they claim they do and any suggestions on a good plug to use.
So - gas mileage more important -
headers for improved heat transfer and exhaust flow- ceramic / stainless / not at all.
throttle body spacer for improved air whatever it claims
170 temp thermo for cooler running temp
plugs - had bosch plats then those new E3 plugs in it now - any suggestions
coil packs - stick with stock ones I'm still using

currently has k&n air filter and flowmaster exhaust - will have rebuilt heads - I'm happy with the 16 to 18 mpg I was getting before but do not want to throw a bunch of stuff on it thinking it will help and I end up with 10 to 12 mpg and 50 more horsepower.

thanks