brucej171

Hey I'm in need of help! Long story short purchased a 95 ford ranger 4cyl 5 speed. Truck started to over heat after 30 miles of driving. So after work today I went to check/replace thermostat. Come to find out there is NO thermostat in the truck! anyways replaced with new thermostat, radiator cap and filled the radiator (literally like a gallon and a half) reservoir was full but radiator pretty empty. So I finish everything start the truck and now is running like complete junk. Where as before when it was wrong just overheated but ran smooth.. Now it's shaking and blowing white smoke? Head gasket? And how hard to replace? Im pretty sure I can handle it. Any responses will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys,

transmaster

Yes you have a blown head gasket, the thermostat was removed and the coolant level was kept low so the truck would run good for the holy dump job. fortunately an inline 4 is not nearly a PIA to dissemble as a V engine is. This engine has a timing belt with is much less of a PIA then a chain driven OHC. What I have always found interesting about these Ford Rangers is the are also a Mazda truck in fact both where built on the same production line. I goes without say that with a job like this always change the timing belt, replace it with a Goodyear Gatorback timing belt they are the very best.

I found this:


2.3L and 2.5L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain cooling system. CAUTION
   When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
3. Remove air cleaner assembly.
4. Remove the heater hose-to-valve cover retaining screws.
5. Remove the spark plugs.
6. Label and disconnect all of the upper engine components and alternator wiring harnesses.
7. Label and remove the spark plug wires.
8. Disconnect the Exhaust Gas Oxygen (EGO) sensor at the exhaust manifold.
9. Disconnect required vacuum hoses.
10. Remove dipstick tube and bracket.
11. Remove rocker retaining bolts and remove cover.
12. Remove intake manifold retaining bolts.
13. Loosen alternator retaining bolts and remove belt from the pulley. Remove mounting bracket retaining bolts to the head.
14. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at both ends and remove from the vehicle.
15. Remove the timing belt cover bolts and remove the cover. For power steering-equipped vehicles, unbolt the power steering pump bracket and position it off to the side.
16. Loosen the timing belt idler retaining bolts. Position idler in the unloaded position and tighten the retaining bolts.
17. Remove the timing belt from the cam pulley and auxiliary pulley.
18. Remove four nuts and/or stud bolts retaining heat stove to exhaust manifold.
19. Remove the eight exhaust manifold retaining bolts.
20. Remove the timing belt idler and two bracket bolts.
21. Remove the timing belt idler spring stop from the cylinder head.
22. Disconnect the oil sending unit lead wire.
23. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
24. Remove the cylinder head.
25. Clean the cylinder head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold gasket surfaces.
26. Blow oil out of the cylinder head bolt block hoses.
27. Clean valve cover gasket surface on the head.
28. Check cylinder head for flatness. To install:
29. Position head gasket on the block.
30. Clean rocker arm cover (cam cover).
31. Install valve cover gasket to the valve cover.
32. Position cylinder head to block.
33. Install cylinder head retaining bolts and tighten to specifications.
    Fig. 1: 2.3L and 2.5L cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
    
34. Connect oil sending unit lead wires.
35. Install the timing belt idler spring stop to the cylinder head.
36. Position the timing belt idler to the cylinder head, and install its retaining bolts.
37. Install the eight exhaust manifold retaining bolts and/or stud bolts.
38. Install four nuts and/or stud bolts retaining heat stove to exhaust manifold.
39. Align the cam gear with pointer.
40. Align the crank pulley (TDC) with the pointer on the timing belt cover.
41. Position the timing belt to the pulleys (cam and auxiliary).
42. Loosen idler retaining bolts to tension the belt, then rotate the engine and check timing alignment.
43. Adjust belt tensioner and tighten retaining bolts.
44. Install the timing belt cover and its four retaining bolts.
45. Connect the upper radiator hose to the engine and radiator and tighten the retaining clamps.
46. Position the alternator bracket to cylinder head and install its retainers.
47. If removed, position the power steering pump bracket to the engine and install its attaching bolts.
48. Install the accessory drive belt and, if necessary, adjust the belt tension using Belt Tension Gauge Rotunda 021–00045 or equivalent.
49. Position the intake manifold to the cylinder head, and install its retaining bolts.
50. Install the rocker arm covers and retaining bolts.
51. Install the spark plugs.
52. Install the dipstick tube and bracket.
53. Connect the appropriate vacuum hoses.
54. Connect all of the upper engine components and alternator wiring harnesses.
55. Position and connect the spark plug wires.
56. Install the heater hose-to-valve cover retaining screws.
57. Fill and bleed the cooling system.
58. Install the air cleaner.
59. Connect the negative battery cable.
60. Start the engine and check for leaks.

brucej171

Gotcha thanks alot! What are the chances of the head being cracked vs the head gasket?

Preston121068

Seriously, I'd take it back and demand my money back. It's one thing to sell something and hide minor problems, but you have MAJOR problems with this thing and everything I have heard points to the previous owner knowing, even trying to hide the problem.

Stink Foot

Take the head to a machine shop for inspection and re-surfaceing...This is a must do. Then install with a quality name brand head gasket and enjoy.

brucej171

Yea agree with u. But the bos says "as is" I guess I'm going to spend my whole Saturday fixing this truck. Autozone days they sell a product called " blue devil" head gasket sealer. Should o try it?

Stink Foot

Nice write up man...

transmaster

Not very likely this engine is really bullet proof. Be sure to replace the head bolts. go here and read this you will find it very interesting.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/gasket_failure.htm

You are probably stuck with an "sold as is" bill of sale. so you are not going to have a recourse in terms of getting ripped off.

When it comes to torquing the head down I could not find a specific tightening sequence and torque value for your year 2.3L. These spec's change almost by the year.

I had a Mazda truck with an earlier version of this engine and I had a great deal of trouble with it overheating, at first. The cooling systems on these engines have a problem with air bubbles in the system for some reason they are difficult to get properly filled up. This isn't a problem if you do the proper maintenance on the system and take the time necessary to make sure everything topped off and the expansion tank is hooked up and does not leak.

transmaster

Re: Blue Devil: No only no but hell no!!!!! this kind of stuff can make matters even worse, as you will learn from the tutorial. For one thing it can give you false readings on a torque wrench. A properly fitting head gasket that is correct for the application does not require gasket goo. I have always favored Fel-Pro head gasket sets.

Read the tutorial I sent and go with what it tells you to do. (http://www.aa1car.com/library/gasket_failure.htm)

dr_bowtie

the Blue Felpro are the best as they are pre-coated from the factory with Ultra-Blue that actually swells when it gets hot the first time