Sully's build thread
02-06-2012, 09:00 AM
#1
Sully's build thread
I have started a new build. Both, my 97 silverado and the 95 Seirra w/t have been sold.
The wifey picked this up to be her truck, then decided she wanted to use the car. So I get the truck and well, I cant leave anything be for longer than rental time. It is a 2000 F-150 Lariat 4x4 super cab flareside short box. It has the 4.6l v8 and a locked 3.55 rearend. We bought it used and that alone caused us a bunch of work.
here is how we got it:
see, just de-ricing the damn thing is a pile of work!!!
Well may as well start somewhere. First thing was to clean it up with a proper detail. And if you are going to buff the paint, you may as well get that decal out of the way.
Wow thats much better already. Winter time is too cold for painting and fillers and such so I left everything for a while.
Then I found out my wife has Fibromyalgia. Her joints and stuff will get worse and worse over time. So, whats a guy to do? I slapped her around and told her to suck it up! LMFAO! No, I pulled the factory blocks out of the back and decranked the front to level.
Just so you guys know, the decal in my back window is the symbol for the job I did in the navy. I put it on there to test my wife. She passed. I want it gone, but am too lazy to take it off.
Right now I am in Florida visiting my dad. It's warm enough to use filler and paint and stuff down here :evillol:
I think it looks sooooooo much better without the cab spoiler and the sun visor thingy. I was floored when I took them off and found absolutely no rust. I need to fill the holes still. But I need to get some other stuff taken care of before I get back to truck.
There is a list of things I want to get done in the next little bit, but I'll add that as I go.
The wifey picked this up to be her truck, then decided she wanted to use the car. So I get the truck and well, I cant leave anything be for longer than rental time. It is a 2000 F-150 Lariat 4x4 super cab flareside short box. It has the 4.6l v8 and a locked 3.55 rearend. We bought it used and that alone caused us a bunch of work.
here is how we got it:
see, just de-ricing the damn thing is a pile of work!!!
Well may as well start somewhere. First thing was to clean it up with a proper detail. And if you are going to buff the paint, you may as well get that decal out of the way.
Wow thats much better already. Winter time is too cold for painting and fillers and such so I left everything for a while.
Then I found out my wife has Fibromyalgia. Her joints and stuff will get worse and worse over time. So, whats a guy to do? I slapped her around and told her to suck it up! LMFAO! No, I pulled the factory blocks out of the back and decranked the front to level.
Just so you guys know, the decal in my back window is the symbol for the job I did in the navy. I put it on there to test my wife. She passed. I want it gone, but am too lazy to take it off.
Right now I am in Florida visiting my dad. It's warm enough to use filler and paint and stuff down here :evillol:
I think it looks sooooooo much better without the cab spoiler and the sun visor thingy. I was floored when I took them off and found absolutely no rust. I need to fill the holes still. But I need to get some other stuff taken care of before I get back to truck.
There is a list of things I want to get done in the next little bit, but I'll add that as I go.
02-12-2012, 09:27 PM
#2
I got the bug shield off and found a bunch of corrosion on the hood. I had to, block, prime and paint. I didnt have the right tools or money to do it right so I figured I'd try the plasti-dip. I also used it on the roof to fill the holes from the sun visor. The holes from the rear spoiler are on the side of the cab so they will probably get touch up paint and some hand buffing to blend it in a bit. I also pulled the lariat striping off the sides. The all black looks much better than the pin striping and the flat black sets it off IMO. We'll see what happened when I get more low
02-13-2012, 09:15 AM
#5
Taping was how I failed the first time.
Step 1 Big tape.
I used 2" painters tape and taped off major sections that werent going to be covered in dip. I taped all the way to about 1/4" from the lines you see. Making sure that closest line was on top just incase it had to come off as well.
Step 2 actual lines.
Then I went back with 1/2" tape and taped the lines i wanted leaving 2-3" of extra at the ends. I folded the extra back onto itself making a pull tab. This gave me the look I wanted and the ability to remove tape quickly.... very important
Step 3 pin stripes.
I wanted 1/4" pin stripes to break up the solid flat and make it look more on purpose and less of a beater with rattle can on it. I bought pin striping of the desired width and laid it where I wanted the shiny pin stripe to be. Again I left extra and made pull tabs. I used black because it was all they had. I would probably suggest getting a color that contrasts more so you can see exactly what you are getting. The matte black pin striping did how ever give me the inverse finish when everything was tapped off. Just dumb luck and doesn't matter. I'd rather have used a red or white so I could see it better.
Step 4 dip n' pull.
I painted the hood by plasti dip instructions only lightly dusting the tape lines. My final coat over the lines was a heavier coat to ensure coverage followed by immediately remove the tape. What I had left was drying plasti dip where I wanted, shiny factory paint where I wanted, and nice clean lines between them.
Now I just need more low and some kind of sexy wheel...... that's more than the 20 bucks I spent on the dip, so it has to wait.
Step 1 Big tape.
I used 2" painters tape and taped off major sections that werent going to be covered in dip. I taped all the way to about 1/4" from the lines you see. Making sure that closest line was on top just incase it had to come off as well.
Step 2 actual lines.
Then I went back with 1/2" tape and taped the lines i wanted leaving 2-3" of extra at the ends. I folded the extra back onto itself making a pull tab. This gave me the look I wanted and the ability to remove tape quickly.... very important
Step 3 pin stripes.
I wanted 1/4" pin stripes to break up the solid flat and make it look more on purpose and less of a beater with rattle can on it. I bought pin striping of the desired width and laid it where I wanted the shiny pin stripe to be. Again I left extra and made pull tabs. I used black because it was all they had. I would probably suggest getting a color that contrasts more so you can see exactly what you are getting. The matte black pin striping did how ever give me the inverse finish when everything was tapped off. Just dumb luck and doesn't matter. I'd rather have used a red or white so I could see it better.
Step 4 dip n' pull.
I painted the hood by plasti dip instructions only lightly dusting the tape lines. My final coat over the lines was a heavier coat to ensure coverage followed by immediately remove the tape. What I had left was drying plasti dip where I wanted, shiny factory paint where I wanted, and nice clean lines between them.
Now I just need more low and some kind of sexy wheel...... that's more than the 20 bucks I spent on the dip, so it has to wait.
02-13-2012, 09:18 AM
#6
The grill looks like crap now... I am half tempted to PTM (the truck not the hood or surround) but I dont want to put tape on the plasti dip. I'll figure something out I guess. Any ideas?