So, we're all interested in lowered trucks, now how about improving handling to get that sports car feel. I'd like to explore a couple topics:

1) what are the best ways to improve handling while lowering?
2) what are the best kits / parts available for the task?
3) real world experiences with different approaches
4) take into account different options for both 2wd and 4wd

To me a set of sway bars (with proper end link geometry), front coilovers, and replacement rear shocks are likely the golden ticket. What's everyone else think?

 

for better handling would harder or softer than stock rear shocks be better?

 

I am gonna say sway bar geometry is a big part. I am currently trying to find an fix for my oem swaybar after lowering.

Anybody who says they don't notice it being jacked up after lowering is flat out wrong. They may not perceive a difference but swaybars were never designed to run like that properly.

Its gotta be parallel to the ground not at a 30deg angle.

 

I completely removed my front sway bar. This isn't really related to the topic, but I wonder now if there's any way to mount the front sway bar under the lower control arm instead of on top of it. Hmmmm.....I'll have to look at that

btw I have the cal max 3" lowering arms in addition to shortened stock springs and removed isolators

 

I actually considered removing mine just to see the difference between none and being incorrectly set up.

Did you notice any noise when you removed the isolators?

 

I'm 4x4 so want to roll under this weekend and check the length of my end links and how long I need. I'm then going to roll under a 2wd at the dealer to see if they're shorter and if they match what I need. If that fails, I'm going to take my dimensions and call energy suspension and see what they have to offer. I do believe the geometry is step one.

 

Anyone have opinions on the best coilover and shock setup out there from a handling perspective? I currently have the ground force springs up from with drop shackles in the rear but I intend to move to a 2/4 drop with coilovers and new shocks

i want this truck to handle like my SRT10 did, I know it's possible but need to find the right combo

 

I greased the top of the springs before I put them back in. I guess it's been about 6 months and I haven't noticed any noise from them.

we should probably let this thread get back on topic

 

So it looks like there are literally zero options for lowering coilovers on these 2015+ trucks...that sucks. I wonder how a 0-3" icon coilovers would work in conjunction with a 3" lower control arm drop? You could set the coilovers on 0 or +1 lift and then tune appropriately. I also don't see LCA's for 4wd which also sucks

 

Agree the front bar needs to be addressed. There's always the tried and true bolt style links. Energy Suspension makes a good one and they're readily available at most parts stores in different lengths. I ran a set on my pro Touring 2012 Ram R/T for a while.







You can get into spherical rod end links but I had bad luck with those on the street. They just didn't last longer than a couple thousand miles and I was using $250 links from Chris Alston Chassisworks. More of a race car deal I guess.



Then there's a combination rod end/bushing. These may last longer with the urethane there to absorb some of the beating. Spohn makes these, they're a good company. I worked with them to design and get manufactured adjustable rear link bars for 4th Gen Ram trucks. I haven't tried these links personally but they look good.



The main thing is you have to think outside the box to make stuff happen sometimes. Don't look for Ford specific parts...just look for parts.


When I built this truck I used a ton of weird stuff. It took a ton of research but it performed phenomenally well. I used to run Mulholland and the other SoCal canyons every weekend when I lived out there.
This consisted of Kore Racing billet UCA's, modified factory LCA's, 3/4 ton Ram tie rods with billet ends from the SRT trucks, Chris Alston front end links, Hellwig Sway bars, adjustable QA1 shocks, Rotora 16" front brakes with 8 piston calipers, 15" rear with 4 piston calipers, custom adjustable rear end links, custom 4-link and panhard and I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things.
That thing stayed flat on some seriously tight corners. It would roll a 305/35/22 under to the sidewall and just plant itself and go.









When you factor in the one-off ADV.1 wheels that were 22x10 but only 26lbs each, brakes and everything else I had over $30,000 in the suspension. Ask yourself just how well you really want it to handle because it gets real expensive, real fast.


Luckily I had the power under the hood to take advantage of the chassis.