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Just released 2015+ 3/5.5 Belltech lowering kit. Kit info

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Old 06-12-2016, 08:47 PM
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The front at 3 inches..at least with the Belltech kit ...rides slightly firmer than stock due to the shock valving...but I would imagine would ride leaps and bounds better than drop springs. The djm kit should ride like stock because of it still being a new lower control arm with stock strut/spring. However my concern with that kit is the geometry change..someone may be able to chime in if there's any quirky handling issues with the djm kit (bumpsteer etc...).

What most people have been concerned with is the rear flip because of the limited space between the axle and the frame. I'm in Florida and blessed with good roads..not much of an issue here. If you live where the roads are bad...it won't be fun as the rear bump stops will see plenty of use


[1QUOTE=VinceNC;4784598]Ok, for you guys that have lowered you trucks; how do you feel about lowering the front 3 inches. Is it too low, how does it ride/ handle? Would you do it again or only go 2 inches. Thanks.[/QUOTE]
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VinceNC (06-12-2016)
Old 06-13-2016, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BoostedBlueFlame
Jorge

I hate to say this...but it sounds like shop you used was too "lazy" to install it correctly. All these things people are skipping (control arm mount, carrier bearing)..are part of the installation instructions. Keep in mind a lot of the lifted trucks sitting on the dealers lot probably have had more invasive work done.

My recommendation

1) add air springs in the rear (my plan) and have the install completed correctly..if you ever want to turn it back to stock you can...the holes are being elongated 1/2 inch or so..align to factory with factory parts..the modification is hidden by the LCA. The carrier bearing mount would need to be rewelded to the crossmember going back stock (I cut it cleanly and saved it) I did it in my garage on jackstands was the biggest pain...on a lift your not laying in the metal shavings.

2) Set the Belltech strut to a 1 inch drop...max the instructions say will work and align without modding the mounts and just run a drop shackle in the back (take some of the rake out of it).
Hey Boosted,

I myself wasn't overly ecstatic when the installer told me he didn't follow the instructions all the way as he didn't feel the need to, but I also would have felt a bit uneasy hacking away at a component attached to the frame also.

I appreciate the proposed solution but I was planning to go this route as it may fit my needs better.

- Raise the front 1" (praying it will correct as much camber without notching the LCA hole)
- Add Auto Spring Rear Add-A-Leaf system to raise the rear 1.5-2" while also increasing payload.

I'll keep you posted on how things pan out. Thanks again for all your assistance and input!
Old 06-13-2016, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BoostedBlueFlame
The front at 3 inches..at least with the Belltech kit ...rides slightly firmer than stock due to the shock valving...but I would imagine would ride leaps and bounds better than drop springs. The djm kit should ride like stock because of it still being a new lower control arm with stock strut/spring. However my concern with that kit is the geometry change..someone may be able to chime in if there's any quirky handling issues with the djm kit (bumpsteer etc...).

What most people have been concerned with is the rear flip because of the limited space between the axle and the frame. I'm in Florida and blessed with good roads..not much of an issue here. If you live where the roads are bad...it won't be fun as the rear bump stops will see plenty of use


[1QUOTE=VinceNC;4784598]Ok, for you guys that have lowered you trucks; how do you feel about lowering the front 3 inches. Is it too low, how does it ride/ handle? Would you do it again or only go 2 inches. Thanks.
[/QUOTE]

I agree with Boosted, had a chance to drive the vehicle and on nice straight roads it does feel more stiffer, stable and more planted. Prior to the install I felt like I was driving a boat and wasn't too fond of the handling as it didn't feel stable. I plan to install the Hellwig sway bars in the future for even more stability and chassis tightening.
Old 06-13-2016, 07:19 PM
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$150 rebate on this kit starting june 15th to july 31st. for those that purchase from me i will give you info and you send in my paperwork and will get a $150 credit card back
Old 07-21-2016, 04:03 PM
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Well damn. I have my Belltech kit waiting to install, but I was concerned all along about having to elongate the holes in front and cut the carrier bearing bracket off in the rear. More concerned with the front because im sure the right tool makes all the difference, but what really is the best tool(s) for doing this? Drill 4 holes 1st, then create the slot? Im thinking this is the best solution, but i dunno...lol
Old 07-23-2016, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 2016BoostedGreyGoose
Well damn. I have my Belltech kit waiting to install, but I was concerned all along about having to elongate the holes in front and cut the carrier bearing bracket off in the rear. More concerned with the front because im sure the right tool makes all the difference, but what really is the best tool(s) for doing this? Drill 4 holes 1st, then create the slot? Im thinking this is the best solution, but i dunno...lol
Right there with you haha. My kit is sitting in my garage (more waiting for cooler/less humid weather), and I've been trying to decide what the best route will be for this. Probably will center punch it, drill it out the size it needs to be (got a decent drill, so not worried about that, just need to ensure I have right size bit), then smooth it out with my Dremel. I don't think it's far enough that it will be it's own separate hole, just some overlap, so grind down the peaks. If I'm wrong, probably punch and drill another hole to overlap in between, then grind down peaks.
Old 07-23-2016, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Yonash1987
Right there with you haha. My kit is sitting in my garage (more waiting for cooler/less humid weather), and I've been trying to decide what the best route will be for this. Probably will center punch it, drill it out the size it needs to be (got a decent drill, so not worried about that, just need to ensure I have right size bit), then smooth it out with my Dremel. I don't think it's far enough that it will be it's own separate hole, just some overlap, so grind down the peaks. If I'm wrong, probably punch and drill another hole to overlap in between, then grind down peaks.
Yeah I think your right. Still not sure how to feel about having to cut off the drive shaft bracket. Im sure that action alone will void some part of if not the whole power train warranty
Old 07-23-2016, 06:06 PM
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For elongating the holes..a die grinder with a good carbide but...you only need a 1/2 per hole...it's a b!tc#...took longer than the rest of the install
..but aligns perfect (i've got 13k miles on the kit)
Old 07-23-2016, 06:21 PM
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Thanks.... Wouldnt it have been easier if your drilled a hole 1st usig a carbide bit and then cleaned up the slot by connecting the 2 holes together? Im asking like if you had to do it again. What size bit did you use?
Originally Posted by BoostedBlueFlame
For elongating the holes..a die grinder with a good carbide but...you only need a 1/2 per hole...it's a b!tc#...took longer than the rest of the install
..but aligns perfect (i've got 13k miles on the kit)
Old 07-23-2016, 06:33 PM
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.....I mean like this? This is what comes to my mind when slotting a hole so that you dont have so much material to have to cut thru with the die grinder....




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