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I guess I coulda zipped one of those off real quick to look at the threads. It's so damn cold right now, I just took the pics and ran back in, LOL. I'm pretty sure they are 8 mm threads too, though.
EDIT: Just looked at my phone - 15 degrees out right now. UGGGH!!!
Yea, I was wondering yesterday if yours were 6mm, just didn't mention it. Kind of doubt it though.
Also was thinking about pulling the plate so I could get a pic of those fasteners or "clip-nuts" (couldn't think of that word yesterday) as Barebones called them . So you could see how long or large they were. Not all of them were the longer type from what I recall, just the clip nuts in the frame rail were. Fasteners in the crossover are the smaller type.
Like you said, too cold. We were getting freezing drizzle, would of been on back in the wet grass putting that plate/guard back on. Yea, harassment lol.
Thx. I got the bolts with the skid plate though. Im not that stupid. just havent had chance to look at em.
I actually figured my truck must have had the skid plate originally and first owner removed for maintenance and never put back. Im guilty of that on two vehicles. Couldnt change oil filter without removing front plate. I was disgusted to find no nuts, clips, just gaping holes. What should be 5 minutes ....just turned into a pita.
Look like 10mm head, i mic the thread thread at 7.79 mm.
I got half mind to drill new holes and tap the frame instead .
Huh, 10mm as well ? They must of ran out of those at assembly throwing the 98 together.....opted for the 13's lol.
Right, drill the frame or use self tapping screws lol. I know your kidding, yea, frame isn't thick enough. It might work the first time but it's too easy to strip out. Ford used that method for the frame/battery grounding bolt behind the passenger side tire. The bolt stripped out the first time I removed it (way back when). In fact, it got stuck in there. Had to pry up on the bolt while attempting to remove. That stripped it out. A little corrosion on the threads will strip a frame tap lickity split. Ended up welding in a silicon bronze nut inside the frame rail for ground. Turned out great except.... Short story, if you decide to weld. - I cooked the PCM and blew apart coil #4 while welding on it, you could see the coil windings/transformer on 4....blew the plastic housing off around the bottom of the coil head. I guess the coil was my ground. Yea, that really shouldn't of happened, my ground was close and I took the paint off frame before clamping. The fact that it did occur, well, I don't usually clamp anymore and use a 1/0 ox free copper grounding cable on the welder and bolt or vice grip the ground to the vehicle since taht experience lol. Paranoia.. yuh think ? Well, at the very least disconnect the PCM and 02 sensors before welding... it's quick. Welding those nuts your going want at least 100 amps to do it right. Actually , you probably wouldn't use nuts, you could I guess. Using bungs would be easier, - secured with 2 3/16 spot welds. Too much work lol, it's just a guard, clips will be fine.
7.79 = 8 and 5/16 AFA tolerance. Clip nut/pinch nut fasteners. Just in case you haven't come across this yet, - don't get discouraged if the bolt only threads so far then tightens up. It's most likley the right thread, a lot of those fasteners incorporate pinch nuts. It's good dtuff and what you want. They won't vibe loose on yuh, can take a lot's of abuse...like say, from a greenee with his first impact. lol