What did you do to your 10th gen today?
Senior Member
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I still haven't gotten around to the driver's side CV axle, but I did take the truck in for my yearly inspection and failed for a bad upper ball joint on the passenger side.
So I replaced the upper arms and the front shocks while I was at it. Still didn't touch the half-shaft, though. Not enough time in the weekend with kids stuff and other household chores.
Total for parts at Napa was $178 for both arms and a pair of shocks. Shop wanted $500 to do the job. Silliness!
So I replaced the upper arms and the front shocks while I was at it. Still didn't touch the half-shaft, though. Not enough time in the weekend with kids stuff and other household chores.
Total for parts at Napa was $178 for both arms and a pair of shocks. Shop wanted $500 to do the job. Silliness!
Senior Member
I still haven't gotten around to the driver's side CV axle, but I did take the truck in for my yearly inspection and failed for a bad upper ball joint on the passenger side.
So I replaced the upper arms and the front shocks while I was at it. Still didn't touch the half-shaft, though. Not enough time in the weekend with kids stuff and other household chores.
Total for parts at Napa was $178 for both arms and a pair of shocks. Shop wanted $500 to do the job. Silliness!
So I replaced the upper arms and the front shocks while I was at it. Still didn't touch the half-shaft, though. Not enough time in the weekend with kids stuff and other household chores.
Total for parts at Napa was $178 for both arms and a pair of shocks. Shop wanted $500 to do the job. Silliness!
They do have a lot of overhead, but still high.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I adjusted the jam nut on my power steering box to take the play out of the wheel and realigned my steering stabilizer to better clear my sway bar. Feels so much better now.
Now an XLT in Colorado
I swapped out my hail-dented hood for one with paint that's cracked. The price was right ($0.00), and the cracking's not visible from 10 feet away like the dents were. Good enough for now until I can find a better one.
I painted the hood liner before reinstalling it, and had a couple of small COB LED's lying around, so I threw those in while I was at it. I'll swap them out for something better and more durable down the line.
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I painted the hood liner before reinstalling it, and had a couple of small COB LED's lying around, so I threw those in while I was at it. I'll swap them out for something better and more durable down the line.
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Originally Posted by OhioLariat
I swapped out my hail-dented hood for one with paint that's cracked. The price was right ($0.00), and the cracking's not visible from 10 feet away like the dents were. Good enough for now until I can find a better one.
I painted the hood liner before reinstalling it, and had a couple of small COB LED's lying around, so I threw those in while I was at it. I'll swap them out for something better and more durable down the line.
..
I painted the hood liner before reinstalling it, and had a couple of small COB LED's lying around, so I threw those in while I was at it. I'll swap them out for something better and more durable down the line.
..
Now an XLT in Colorado
For show, I think something like Plasti-Dip or bedliner spray... something that would actually seal up the fiberglass fibers... is what you'd want to experiment with.
EDIT: Thinking further, if one used a high-fill primer, it might seal it up before a color coat. Whatever you used, though, would need to remain somewhat flexible. Of course, you could always use fiberglass resin, then sand and paint it.
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Last edited by OhioLariat; 10-22-2017 at 08:14 PM.