saipansmall

Ground is very important. Will be getting a ground to fix this problem. Living on tiny island means a dearth in any mechanic knowing the "right" way of doing things. My mechanic is great, but lacks attention to minor details. I guess this is a minor detail to him.

So. I connected that 90degree tube to the solenoid, anddd things started acting up. I'm not 100% sure it's related, but, I'm 100% sure it happened because I connected that black rubber 90 degree tube to the metal post. It's related.

I uploaded what my truck was doing to me on youtube(except wiper scenario). So, the first thing that was an immediate, the heck?, was that my wipers weren't working. I've encountered this problem before, but never knew why it was happening, until today. There's a typhoon going on right now, so, wipers, necessary, or car crash.

I got the wipers to work by shifting into neutral and putting the wiper to my desired setting. Then shifting back into drive. You can't change the setting of the wiper while on drive, with the 90 degree rubber tube in the metal post.

So, for example: I would switch the wiper to high speed on neutral, and shift to drive; but, while in drive, I am unable to change any settings; I have to shift back into neutral to turn off the wipers.

Second the heck?! is that my lights were blinking. That is also in the link to youtube. Key is out of the ignition. Light switch is turned to the left. Black 90degree tube is attached to metal post.

Third the heck?! is a sort of clicking sound was coming from the cabin. This is on youtube. It sounded like those clackers you use on July 4th, and New Years. Key out of ignition. Rubber 90degree black tube attached to metal post.

This car has mood swings.

Jbrew

So, - you get that ground hooked up yet? This is where that might be critical.

Also you lights use two separate grounds. One on each side of the radiator.

Jbrew

Thanks for thank ssaipansmall , but that was directed towards that ungrateful kid. Hell, I even taught him how to post pics lol. Exactly why they tend to end up on the ignore list lol.

Regardless, -nothing derogatory towards you...didn't want you to get the wrong idea.

But yea fab up a ground to run from engine to firewall or a temp if you don't have any wire or cable on hand.

Jbrew

I have a question, I didn't see an anwser (unless I missed it), how did you end up with all these issues. Water damage perhaps ? I mean, it looks like something happened, - whomever couldn't fix it and canibleized it attempting to so. Was it just handed off to you in this kind of shape ? Hell, even your fuse block looks like it's missing fuses.

Carcrazygts2

I got rid of the ground straps when I did the big three upgrade. You only need once sufficient engine to chassis ground. I use premium welding lead that is capable of carrying 450amp/ft.

saipansmall

[MENTION=113]Jbrew[/MENTION] Oh, well, regardless, you're awesomeness is helping me solve my problems. Thanks!

I didn't get a ground hooked up yet because hardware store and my mechanic are taking a typhoon day. But, if it isn't too much trouble, would it be possible to see a picture of what your ground looks like? I'm not too sure how I should fabricate the connection to the engine block. Also, if you have any resources about those lights?

If I detach the 90degree black tube, then these problems seem to go away. Could all these issues be caused by that bad starter solenoid?

A combination of hand me down, and bad mechanics have led this truck to being my special child. One that is a pain and needs constant attention. Our local dealer for ford and almost every repair shop except mine are all terrible, just plain terrible.

I took off the panels covering the fuse box and general area under the steering column to get a better view. As for the fuses, I made sure I wasn't missing any and that none of them were fried. But, yes, shops here cannablize on good working cars to put in other cars. Ford owners seem to have bad here because....well, you know, stealership and all.

saipansmall

[MENTION=76842]Carcrazygts2[/MENTION] Thanks for the info! So, no electrical issues? I should do this just because I could be missing more than that engine to firewall ground. Might solve other issues.

Unrelated, I have an OBDII computer as I work for a carshop.

saipansmall

No water damage to computer, I hope. Though, i was leaker water from the rear window, but that's fixed. I am still leaking, occasionally, water from the driver's oh **** bar's nut hole. Emergency bar handle, or roll bar handle if i'm not mistaken?

saipansmall

@twoskinoneman. Do you mind explaining the testing process a bit more? I took a volt meter and got readings from the three metal posts on the solenoid. But, i'm not sure what i should i be looking for?..

Jbrew

Make it a Big 4. It matters quite a bit, but that's for another topic. With that last ground...well it's just not finished, put it that way for now.. However, -that was news to me as well, so yea, I had to confirm it..trued it! He needs a link up top IMO. Since the isn't a direct ground there. Unless I'm missing something, right now the chassis to engine ground has to run thru the frame rail. Should be a direct so that path isn't so long and without transition points. Probably why Ford put one there I expect.

The other is cab to frame to engine ground under the passenger side floorboard. A quicker path to engine.