I was getting the dreaded metallic squeak when backing up so I decided to replace the u-joints on the rear drive shaft. I was surprised as the truck has low miles but I guess it is getting pretty old.


Anyway I started with the diff side figuring I could just tap them out or use my bench vise. 10 minutes in I realized this wasn't happening and called my brother over and asked him to bring his 12 ton press. 2 Hours later I was putting the new joint in but it wouldn't seat so the snap would fit right. I broke the end cap of the new Moog u-joint trying to get it to seat. I pulled the plug and took the shaft to a drive line specialty shop. I asked him to use the Spicer non-greaseable u-joint figuring the Moog ones were too big. He called and informed me that they have updated the rear flange and that is why I could not get the u-joint to seat. The new flange is $65.00 dollars here in Canuckastan. He said he could make the old one work with Loctite and "pinning" it but I don't like mickey moussing stuff so I ordered the new flange. I never saw any mention of this in my search so I figured I would post this in case anyone else ran into this issue.


I learned that I will never attempt to remove old u-joints again. With the crap they spread on the roads they were seized in and even with a 12 ton press and a can of liquid wrench they did not want to come out. I will remove the drive shaft and take it in.

 

Damn that's expensive for a new flange yoke. I also broke mine doing U joints. I think mine was like 30USD. I went to the driveline shop and they balanced the drive shaft and gave me a new flange yoke for less than 100USD out the door.

 

30 USD sounds right. We will pay the exchange rate difference plus the 30 to 50% markup just because we live in Canada.

 

I got the d/s in my Expy done (3 u-joints and a funky CV) with a new flange, AND the 2 u-joints on the front d/s all for 170 US dollars. All Spicer parts as well.


EDIT: Not too sure what this thing is called in the middle of the u-joints...

 

Northeast winters are bad here too. I ended up removing the driveshaft with the u joint intact and cut them off with an angle grinder with a cutting blade. Knocked the ends off using an old socket and 4lb sledge. Hand sanded the the holes and the new one popped in nicely.

 

I got the driveshaft back tonight. Should I lube the slip yoke splines while I have it off? Is this an issue for the 10 gens or is it the newer trucks? Mine hasn't clunked so far.

 

Yes, and Ford makes a special grease for that application. Using the wrong product (or none) can result in the "40-mph hop" effect. I have a tube out in the garage, and can get the P/N in the morning if you need it.

Andy

 

I did a little more digging and found you should use the Ford XG-8 PTFE lubricant. It just doesn't seem like too many 10 gens were having this issue and I haven't at all (knock on wood). I can't imagine it will last too long as the Mercon ATF in the transfer case will wash it away. I would have thought the Mercon would be plenty of lube for the slip yoke. I will stop by the dealer on the way home tonight to pick up the PTFE grease before I put it all back together tomorrow. How long is this "fix" lasting until you have to yank the driveshaft and lube it again?

 

I did it once, and the problem did not return over the following 5+ years (maybe longer) .

Also, that splined shaft shouldn't come into contact with trans fluid. If it did, it would be due to a seal leaking, and fluid would likely be dripping from the tailshaft housing.

Andy

 

Good to know. I wasn't looking forward to removing the driveshaft becoming a regular thing. At my age I enjoy laying on the garage floor less and less it seems.