I have a 2003 F-150 Super Cab 4WD. Yesterday I went down the road, came back. stopped at bottom of the hill to go into 4 WD and truck wouldn't move in 4 or 2 WD. After a few attempts tries it started to move and away I went. I went in the house came back out and again....will not move. The speedometer works, it shows rpm but no go!!

DTCs in PCM: P1000, P0602
DTCs in RCM: B1884
DTCs in GEM: B1352

===OBDII DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II
===END OBDII===

===IC DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Instrument Cluster
===END IC===

===PCM DTC P1000===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Check of all systems is not complete since last memory clear.

--Possible Causes--
- The vehicle is new from the factory and has not yet been through a complete OBD Drive Cycle.
- The battery or PCM has been disconnected.
- An OBD monitor failure had occurred prior to completion of an OBD Drive Cycle.
- The PCM DTCs have been cleared as part of a service process.

Note: The only way P1000 can be cleared (removed) from memory is when all of the OBD monitors have been successfully completed during normal vehicle operation.

P1000 cannot be cleared from the PCM when: 1. The thermostat is stuck open and a DTC is not generated. 2. There is an open VSS circuit and a DTC is not generated. 3. If the vehicle has a Power Take Off (PTO), the circuit is shorted to VPWR or B+, or the PTO is ON during Self-test.

The purpose of the Diagnostic Trouble Code DTC P1000 is to indicate that not all of the On Board Diagnostics OBD monitors have yet been successfully completed. You may also refer to the OBD Drive Cycle defined under the Powertrain Control/Emission Diagnosis Manual-Diagnostic Methods or the Owner's Manual.

Remember: It is not necessary to remove P1000 from the Powertrain Control Module PCM by driving the vehicle.


===END PCM===

===PCM DTC P0602===
Code: P0602 - PCM programming error

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

PCM programming error

Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.


===END PCM===

===RCM DTC B1884===
Code: B1884 - Passenger Air Bag Disable Warning Lamp Circuit Failure

Module: Restraint Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Passenger Air Bag Disable Warning Lamp Circuit Failure

--- Possible Causes --------

-PAD Warning Lamp Inoperative

-Suspect
-Warning Lamp -Electronic Crash Sensor (ECS) Module

Suspect a short in the wiring.


===END RCM===

===GEM DTC B1352===
Code: B1352 - Ignition key in circuit fault

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Ignition key in circuit fault

--- Possible Causes --------
This DTC can be generated by:

-Open Key-In Ignition Switch circuit
- Battery short Key-In Ignition Switch circuit
- Battery short Ignition Switch RUN/ACCY circuit
- Suspect Ignition Switch
- Suspect Lighting Control Module.


===END GEM===

===RAP DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Remote Anti-Theft / Personality Module
===END RAP===

===ABS DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Antilock braking system
===END ABS===

 

Go pull your trans dipstick and smell the fluid and see if it smells burnt. While it on a white rag and see what color the fluid is.

 

fluid was really low?? the odd time I can get it into gear and move, both in 2 and 4 wheel drive. When it wont move it shows speed and rpm in all gears including neutral.

 

You checked it the correct way after warming it up right? When you shift into forward or reverse can you feel it shift? Your speedometer registers even in neutral? What values are you getting?

 

I'm gonna guess your transfer case is either stuck between gears or the chain broke

 

I'm leaning that way too.

 

Not sure what you mean by that, but only you should be able to determine. You also need to know how to check the trans fluid properly when at operating temp.

I only mention this because if low it can lock up off and on and even stall the engine. The only way to correctly check is after at least 20 miles, then stop with engine running then go through the gears w/foot on the brake pausing in each gear until you work your way back to park. Then your stick will be accurate. Checking cold isn't accurate enough as it differs quite a bit once checked the correct way.

 

It was warmer up before checking it. Gonna take a closer look closer at it tomorrow