Transmission flush or drop the pan and fill?
#22
Senior Member
If you Flush it expect rebuilding it. If you have a broken Oil Cooler, tear it apart and you'll see it's impossible to clean just like the modern A/C condenser. Flushing always causing problem so why risk having tranny a problem? Just install a Magnetic Filter to catch the magnetic debris.
#23
Martin
Unless the inline added filter that's spoken of has a bypass built in, I wouldn't do it. How does one know when it's getting full and puts too much back pressure against the trans pump?
The Japanese manufactures have it right here, pan with a magnetic drain plug. Why have the hassle of using cooler lines and pumps ect., the drain makes it's easy. After the first time you should know exactly how much fluid goes back in, a true 15 minute job!
The Japanese manufactures have it right here, pan with a magnetic drain plug. Why have the hassle of using cooler lines and pumps ect., the drain makes it's easy. After the first time you should know exactly how much fluid goes back in, a true 15 minute job!
#24
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm just going to keep running it and see how far it takes me. I have noticed the hard shifting had stopped. So I know I still have old fluid mixed in there. Is there a specific amount of miles I wait to redo the drop the pan and replace fluid again? Or should I just let it be and don't do it again because of the mileage?
I have noticed that when the engine is warm i smell alittle ATF fluid. I have cleaned every place underneath the truck for Atf left over when the pan was dropped. I don't see it leaking anywhere. I wasn't smelling it before. Thanks.
I have noticed that when the engine is warm i smell alittle ATF fluid. I have cleaned every place underneath the truck for Atf left over when the pan was dropped. I don't see it leaking anywhere. I wasn't smelling it before. Thanks.
#25
Senior Member
I just did a pan drop and filter replacement only to find out the filter had never been replaced ( had the tell tale yellow plunger). While my pan was off I installed a drain plug so I could more easily replace the 5qts that come out on a pan drop. I did replace the cheap I ring that came with the plug with a better one and even put a small amount of pipe thread tape on the threads.
#26
Senior Member
a little bit more spendy than the universal drain plug but some might like this if they havent seen it. 4r7ow pan with drain plug from the factory
http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/tranny/...res/index.html
http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/tranny/...res/index.html
#27
Looking for a Henway.
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm just going to keep running it and see how far it takes me. I have noticed the hard shifting had stopped. So I know I still have old fluid mixed in there. Is there a specific amount of miles I wait to redo the drop the pan and replace fluid again? Or should I just let it be and don't do it again because of the mileage?
I have noticed that when the engine is warm i smell alittle ATF fluid. I have cleaned every place underneath the truck for Atf left over when the pan was dropped. I don't see it leaking anywhere. I wasn't smelling it before. Thanks.
I have noticed that when the engine is warm i smell alittle ATF fluid. I have cleaned every place underneath the truck for Atf left over when the pan was dropped. I don't see it leaking anywhere. I wasn't smelling it before. Thanks.
I plan on doing another in about 500 miles after the last one, and may do one more after that in a few thousand. I personally would do a minimum of 3 drains. That will get 80-90% of the old fluid out and you should be good for at least another 30,000 miles after that (if you don't tow).
I noticed a little improvement with my OD shift "thunk" after the first drain, and rarely notice it now after the second drain. Hopefully the 3rd drain will completly make it disappear.
As for the smell, I noticed a little ATF smell for a few days, I guess it just got in a few places I could not clean, but it went away.
a little bit more spendy than the universal drain plug but some might like this if they havent seen it. 4r7ow pan with drain plug from the factory
http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/tranny/...res/index.html
http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/tranny/...res/index.html
I thought about it, but I figured $4 was a lot cheaper than that replacement, and if done correctly, would still work just as well (and has so far).
Last edited by blupupher; 06-29-2014 at 08:24 AM.
#28
I researched and researched this and the overwhelming consensus was doing an exchange. I did a complete exchange at 105,000 when I changed all the fluids (diffs, transfer case, coolant, etc.)
I cut the return line exiting the transmission cooler. I added a clear hose extension and ran it into a gallon milk jug. I started the engine and allowed 3-4 quarts to run into the jug...... this evacuates the transmission pan.... then I poured in 4-5 quarts of new Mercon V. Then I repeated this process running 17 quarts of new Mercon V into the system. After 11-13 quarts you could see the fluid color clear indicating presence of new Mercon V. Also, after the first 3-4 quart drain, I dropped the pan and replaced the filter before adding Mercon V.
I installed a Microfine filter in the line where I cut it and I've changed the Microfine every 5000-10000 miles.
All should be good ..... right???
I had no problems with Transmission until about 2-3 weeks ago at about 131,000. Transmission started jumping, etc after everything warmed up. I fought it for a week or so. But......... I just got it back from a $2600 rebuild.
This is the first time in 100s of thousands of miles and multiple vehicles that I have ever had to get a transmission worked on. I busted 300,000 on a 3/4 ton 1995 Suburban and over 200,000 on a 1990 F250. A lot of miles on other vehicles but never any transmission work.
I guess it was my turn.
I cut the return line exiting the transmission cooler. I added a clear hose extension and ran it into a gallon milk jug. I started the engine and allowed 3-4 quarts to run into the jug...... this evacuates the transmission pan.... then I poured in 4-5 quarts of new Mercon V. Then I repeated this process running 17 quarts of new Mercon V into the system. After 11-13 quarts you could see the fluid color clear indicating presence of new Mercon V. Also, after the first 3-4 quart drain, I dropped the pan and replaced the filter before adding Mercon V.
I installed a Microfine filter in the line where I cut it and I've changed the Microfine every 5000-10000 miles.
All should be good ..... right???
I had no problems with Transmission until about 2-3 weeks ago at about 131,000. Transmission started jumping, etc after everything warmed up. I fought it for a week or so. But......... I just got it back from a $2600 rebuild.
This is the first time in 100s of thousands of miles and multiple vehicles that I have ever had to get a transmission worked on. I busted 300,000 on a 3/4 ton 1995 Suburban and over 200,000 on a 1990 F250. A lot of miles on other vehicles but never any transmission work.
I guess it was my turn.
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Missouri Ozarks & Clay Country GA
Posts: 1,545
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Duck, I sure wish I had your transmission success! I've been stranded three times by transmission! And I'm very easy on my vehicles. One Chevy 1500, one Chrysler, one Oldsmobile. My '02 F150 has been good so far at 98,000 miles, on which I want to change fluid soon. Drain plug sounds good to me. I'll see.
#30
ok so it has been about 1k since the 5 quarts of fluid change and the filter. I was thinking about doing 5 more quarts. Is there a possibility of running into problems as newer fluid is been added? I do know new fluid could cause it to start slipping if it cleans a lot of the old stuff.
What do you guys think? Most of the people I had talk to said to just change it again at 30k.
What do you guys think? Most of the people I had talk to said to just change it again at 30k.