Timing Fluctuation Anomaly
Greetings,
I have just checked the timing, and the every couple of seconds the engine hesitates and goes a few degrees off. Then is spot on 10* BTDC
This causes horrible vibration when driving.
I recently replaced the following parts:
Distributor, Rotor, Cap, Sparkplugs, Ignition Control Module, IAC, Coil, Speedometer.
The Coil I used was from Autozone, it is red, and is a MSD subsidiary. The Speedometer was from a junk yard too. The ICM is used from a junk yard and is not stamped from Motorcraft like the original. The rest are new parts.
What else could be causing this hesitation?
Should I time it more advanced?
When I changed the timing today, it stalled and would not start back up. With the old one it would just slow down the engine.
I have had this truck for almost 2 years and have not found the solution!

{1995 5.8L 351 E4OD 4x4 }
I have just checked the timing, and the every couple of seconds the engine hesitates and goes a few degrees off. Then is spot on 10* BTDC
This causes horrible vibration when driving.
I recently replaced the following parts:
Distributor, Rotor, Cap, Sparkplugs, Ignition Control Module, IAC, Coil, Speedometer.
The Coil I used was from Autozone, it is red, and is a MSD subsidiary. The Speedometer was from a junk yard too. The ICM is used from a junk yard and is not stamped from Motorcraft like the original. The rest are new parts.
What else could be causing this hesitation?
Should I time it more advanced?
When I changed the timing today, it stalled and would not start back up. With the old one it would just slow down the engine.
I have had this truck for almost 2 years and have not found the solution!

{1995 5.8L 351 E4OD 4x4 }
Yea I was starting to thin the injectors could be the problem. I put in premium gas (93) and a bottle of fuel cleaner, and the truck ran great. However it did hesitate, but not nearly as bad. I also read that after years of having the EGR let in carbon riddled gas into the intake causing carbon buildup.
Has anyone had luck plugging up the EGR?
Has anyone had luck plugging up the EGR?
I would also check the cam shaft sensor and the crank shaft sensor. Cam shaft sensor is in the front of the engine on the right side. Crank shaft sensor is behind the A/C compressor on the left side of engine. If not getting a good signal the truck will run badly or not at all.
My experience has been the Crank sensor because it collects a lot of dirt and oil that causes it go give bad signals. Sometime cleaning the connections will fix problem. A new sensor is about $25. Check your computer codes if you can drive it to Autozone, they will do it for you for free and tell you what the problems is if it is showing up in the codes.
My experience has been the Crank sensor because it collects a lot of dirt and oil that causes it go give bad signals. Sometime cleaning the connections will fix problem. A new sensor is about $25. Check your computer codes if you can drive it to Autozone, they will do it for you for free and tell you what the problems is if it is showing up in the codes.
I would also check the cam shaft sensor and the crank shaft sensor. Cam shaft sensor is in the front of the engine on the right side. Crank shaft sensor is behind the A/C compressor on the left side of engine. If not getting a good signal the truck will run badly or not at all.
My experience has been the Crank sensor because it collects a lot of dirt and oil that causes it go give bad signals. Sometime cleaning the connections will fix problem. A new sensor is about $25. Check your computer codes if you can drive it to Autozone, they will do it for you for free and tell you what the problems is if it is showing up in the codes.
My experience has been the Crank sensor because it collects a lot of dirt and oil that causes it go give bad signals. Sometime cleaning the connections will fix problem. A new sensor is about $25. Check your computer codes if you can drive it to Autozone, they will do it for you for free and tell you what the problems is if it is showing up in the codes.

