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I may not be seeing what you are referring to Brew. I do see a strut diagram, and those probably *would* be concave side toward the bushing, since there's typically no off-axis movement (or very little). That's also why I'm not concerned about the fronts on mine. Of course, hundreds of thousands of shocks would be bent or broken if it was a serious concern, as I'm sure you and I aren't the only ones who've been doing it "wrong" all these years.
PS: Bilstein also says not to use an impact to remove or install even the lower bolts due to potential shock damage. That seems a little overly cautious.
No worries, Fox and Bilsteins (4600, some 5100's) are cup side down, - had me worried for minute. The 5100's at the link show cup side down as well, but your illustration doesn't....weird. Surprised you didn't see that.
Like I mentioned earlier, it must be washer (type) dependent.
Yeah, I know. I tried telling them I thought the compressor was bad back in June. I got a 20 spot saying it is bad. It has always been noisier than the original. I'm almost 2 grand into an A/C that hasn't been able to last 10,000 miles.
That would be disturbing, one of my kids, my youngest,- put about 800 into the AC last year, has a G6. She had to warranty that one as well. We'll see how long this one lasts.
The wife's heater in the escape still isn't up to my standards. And with a new kid it may force my hand into dropping some $$$. Thermometer at the vent reads within spec (technically but it's on the low end) but it feels cool when you put your hand up and the higher the fan speed the cooler it seems to be. Fan speed 1 or 2 seems to get it the warmest but definitely won't keep ya warm when the temp outside really dips down.
No worries, Fox and Bilsteins (4600, some 5100's) are cup side down, - had me worried for minute. The 5100's at the link show cup side down as well, but your illustration doesn't....weird. Surprised you didn't see that.
Like I mentioned earlier, it must be washer (type) dependent.
Who the heck knows? Gabriel shows them cupped side toward the bushing.
Probably doesn't make a damm bit of difference either way.
EDIT: Called Bilstein. The washer orientation is application specific. For applications that may flex more, "upside down" per the instructions diagram I posted is correct. ..
Last edited by OhioLariat; Nov 7, 2018 at 02:31 PM.
2100 - I've asked you a million times.... but is it a 4 banger? They are notorious for the t-stat sticking partially open in the plastic housing. Took me a long time to troubleshoot mine.... flushed the core a few times, no change. FINALLY it threw a code after it stuck open enough.
If you look at the blue arrow.... that is plastic holding the bottom of the housing, yes plastic. The heat (I am assuming) over time deforms it, and makes it drop a bit. Then it scrapes and sticks when the stat closes (see shiny spot in red circle). EDIT: and to save you a lot of time, my research showed that Motorcraft was the ONLY way to go on these. There is a Dorman version that had a lot of complaints.
If you look at the blue arrow.... that is plastic holding the bottom of the housing, yes plastic. The heat (I am assuming) over time deforms it, and makes it drop a bit. Then it scrapes and sticks when the stat closes (see shiny spot in red circle). EDIT: and to save you a lot of time, my research showed that Motorcraft was the ONLY way to go on these. There is a Dorman version that had a lot of complaints.
No worries, it's a V6.... I will look into the t-stat. Any good way to test it other than sticking it in hot water and see if it opens?
Who the heck knows? Gabriel shows them cupped side toward the bushing.
Probably doesn't make a damm bit of difference either way.
EDIT: Called Bilstein. The washer orientation is application specific. For applications that may flex more, "upside down" per the instructions diagram I posted is correct. ..
Referring to the front shock top bushings for the most part here.. I figured it had something to do with the cup or washer type, cups aren't all alike. I was also thinking reversing it creates sort of a wall or ridge on each side as it crawls up the washer once compressed. I never went by torque specs, couldn't, as they flattened and deformed the bushing before achieving. Then you go through bushings. Going with bushing compression spec straightened that out (1/8" compressed). Not sure you'll run into that problem., hopefully they straightened that out. The 4600 Bilstein series bushings were junk, the factory original shock bushings were much better with the Bilsteins and lasted a long time. I went with aftermarket after that, but nothing beat the Motorcraft. They don't screw around with cheap bushings, even today. Problem with that, you had to purchase Motorcraft shocks back then just to get the bushing, they didn't sell them separate BUT, - worth it if you could find a good deal on shocks....they didn't cost all that much. However, FOX dumped some cash into their bushings, they use the same type as King shocks use or vice versa.
Same problem with good exhaust hanger/damper bushings, the aftermarkets aren't much more than thickened rubber-bands that quickly loose integrity and fail. Motorcraft or Ford bushings are constructed over a metal skeleton that hold their composer for decades.They are the best and they know it as cost reflects lol. Ford wants $32 per exhaust bushing, but you get what you pay for.
