Squeaky tie rod ends
I have a 1998 F150 that squeaks really bad when turning. My mechanic says it is due to the tie rod ends. The boots are busted.
My question is, besides just squirting some grease inside the boots, what are some good ways to stop the squeaking. I don't want to replace the tie rod ends because this is a truck I don't drive that often.
My question is, besides just squirting some grease inside the boots, what are some good ways to stop the squeaking. I don't want to replace the tie rod ends because this is a truck I don't drive that often.
Uppers are very easy. If they are the factory joints, you will need to replace the whole upper A arm. You can get arms such as Moog with replaceable joints in them.
Lower joints are a bit more work. Not too bad once you have done a few, with the proper tools.
You could goop some grease in them to quiet them up. But keep in mind that they are wearing as they squeek. The ball joint basically holds your wheel on.
I don't like taking that chance while on the highway at 90 mph.
******* Sorry, I thought you said ball joints. DOH !!! Tie rod ends are even easier to change. I'd change them. Wouldn't want to loose my steering either.
Lower joints are a bit more work. Not too bad once you have done a few, with the proper tools.
You could goop some grease in them to quiet them up. But keep in mind that they are wearing as they squeek. The ball joint basically holds your wheel on.
I don't like taking that chance while on the highway at 90 mph.
******* Sorry, I thought you said ball joints. DOH !!! Tie rod ends are even easier to change. I'd change them. Wouldn't want to loose my steering either.
Last edited by skizriz; Oct 3, 2011 at 07:41 PM.
You can't replace the outer tie rods without getting an alignment though. You should be close enough to driving somewhat straight so you can get directly to a shop for one as long as you count the rotations as you unscrew the ends and put them back the same. Also don't hit the bottom of the tie rod end or it can mushroom and not fit through the place it holds in the knuckle. Hit the knuckle where the tie rod end goes through after you take the nut off and it should pop right out. Sometimes some rust penetrant will help but these usually pop out pretty easy. Oh and save the cotter pin so you can put it back in they're kind of important. And break the nut that jams the tie rod end on the tie rod loose BEFORE you pop it out of the knuckle.
Tie rod ends are pretty easy to replace, although you may end up needing to acquire a 2 or 3-jaw puller to pop the ends out of the knuckle. I bought a cheap set of 3 sizes for about $20 at Harbor Freight a couple of years back. They're really low quality, but I've only used them half a dozen times since then.
I have also skipped the alignment in the past, although this is purely personal choice. If you are pretty confident that your current alignment is true, and the replacement parts are EXACTLY the same length as those you are taking off, you can get the new ones on with enough precision to skip the alignment. Either count turns or put a piece of tape on the tie rod before you remove the old ones to mark how far to screw the new ones on. Then keep a close watch on your tires for a few thousand miles to make sure you aren't getting abnormal wear. YMMV, so do this at your own risk.
I have also skipped the alignment in the past, although this is purely personal choice. If you are pretty confident that your current alignment is true, and the replacement parts are EXACTLY the same length as those you are taking off, you can get the new ones on with enough precision to skip the alignment. Either count turns or put a piece of tape on the tie rod before you remove the old ones to mark how far to screw the new ones on. Then keep a close watch on your tires for a few thousand miles to make sure you aren't getting abnormal wear. YMMV, so do this at your own risk.
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"Bad advice" is a tad excessive when referring to something that works regularly and repeatedly. The OP obviously is looking to save a few bucks,and if the caveats are observed, this is a way to do that. If you disagree, duly noted.
I'd be replacing the tie rods as soon as possible.
Snapped a tie rod in my civic at approx 90kmh. That led to a new rim, tire, brake line, ball joint, tie rod and last but not least, the tow truck bill!
Snapped a tie rod in my civic at approx 90kmh. That led to a new rim, tire, brake line, ball joint, tie rod and last but not least, the tow truck bill!
There's no way. Being even a quarter turn off is way off when it comes to an alignment. I've done dozens of sets of tie rod ends and I always count the turns and I've never had them end up in spec. Close, but close isn't good enough when it comes to alignment.



