Well definitely, forums are like life, you only get out what you put into it.

 

The shop says cylinder number 5 has no compression can that be caused by timing being a little off?

 

No.

If the shop was any good, they could figure it out a lot easier than asking the internet-geniuses.

 

Find another shop.

No compression in cylinder 5 sounds like a bad head gasket or piston rings. If they knew what they were doing, they probably would have caught either of those replacing your cylinder head or at least have known where to start looking. That is, if they themselves didn't cause it.

For a while modular triton owners were replacing heads left and right, but now they do make inserts for these engines as a much cheaper alternative. Better to replace your head, but your mechanic should have gave you the option at the very least.

Your engine has a much higher likelihood of blowing plugs again if your mechanic is an idiot or worse, taking you for a ride. Your plugs are only grabbing a couple of threads, so if they're not torqued to spec they can work themselves loose.

Send them invoices for all repairs your new shop does to fix their shoddy work.

 

It could be rings or a gasket. It could also be valves. Without testing, you really don't know

 

Still will make compression with out hard numbers there is no way to determine.

 

Some info for you and whom ever happens upon this thread.

That's one way to do it, but seriously, - no one does that anymore. Just sayin, -it's far to expensive to have done and it isn't needed unless you had some other internal head problems ? That usually isn't the case with the modular motors.

A PROPER blown plug fix W/Timesert is a 20 min fix and you can do this in your driveway. Most will just rent a Timesert kit since the kit is 3 or 400 bucks. Or, you take it in to a 3rd party mechanic that's performed the "Timesert fix". Not a Heli-coil, - a Timesert fix. Heli-coil's aren't a permanent fix for this type of head/plug chamber.

The Ford approved method is called the "Lock & Stitch". This is also another pricey but very permanent fix.

But again, most just go with the Timesert. It's fast Permanent and the cheaper option to get it done right.

Real curious why the head was replaced ?? That's a first.
I'll add a little to the other good posts made from users in this thread, -

Well, usually you only get one shot at this. If it's timed wrong, -it's all over lol. You don't get a second chance...you'll be shopping for a new engine.
With the vehicle running as you said, - you got the timing right. No worries there. Moving on, -

The way it's running is a little peculiar. Perhaps not, need a little more info. By your description. When you say it has no problem getting up to 65mph, is that under normal acceleration? I ask because a typical low grade misfire acts up upon a certain stress load. That load would be 45-55mph under normal acceleration and after the shift into OD. This is the most common defining factor of it being a coil w/shorted turns. It's not a hard fault, - COP systems don't usually fail that way unfortunately. That would make it too easy lol. If your lucky, you'll also have a blinking CEL (MIL) at the time of misfire. The CEL will blink then turn off after so many blinks. That's an indicator that you now have a DTC (DiagnosticTroubleCode) in the KAM (KeepAliveMemory). It'll come up with a simple scan tool or phone app. This info will help determine coil fault from other.

To confirm. I suggest swapping coil with adjacent/Drive cycle it/Find the bad spot and hold/wait for blinking CEL/End cycle/Scan. Determine if misfire has indeed moved away from #5.

Since your mechanic is compression testing, this will confirm valve/head leaks, but that is all. The follower is fine. So I won't get into that.
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When the cats are plugging up, the vehicle can/will exhibit some of the symptoms you suggest. BUT, you'll be well down on power everywhere in the RPM/Load range. A sticky EGR valve can induce these symptoms as well.

I'll wait and see what you find. Have you gone over everything again, - make sure nothing was missed?

 

Ahh Crap! I missed this post...damn!

Anyway, to answer, -no.

Now they need to confirm why. Could be just a follower, - easy fix. Or as others posted above.

 

That's for sure.
Actually, that's not the case with these 10th gens. Plug Spec IS the problem from the get go unfortunately and most of the time. Unless Ford finally revised it. I really doubt it, since it would be admitting fault in this blow out ordeal lol.
Cross threading would be on the owner. That's not as common of a problem, but I've seen it.

You need to torque these 4 or 5 thread chamber threads to 28' foot pounds. Vs service manual spec.