Posted in Intro section and updated my Garage. I love the "search button" but too many times I get frustrated with my description not matching the criteria, so yes I do try search, hence how I found this site

Quesiton 1: 01' XL automatic shift lever is rattling around, I know of the two (2) 30-torx screws to tighten the lever, but is there a detent spring that hold the lever forward (towards the dash)? I'll be checking the screws this week/weekend, but it doesn't necessarily feel like its loosened up from the pivot, more like a spring that would hold it forward is broken/missing. At rest it should normally be more forward, then you pull back and down to shift out of park. Mine will flop fore & aft.

Question 2: I have a noisy engine, 4.2L Wee-6 with 167k miles. Top end was claimed to be redone about 50k miles ago. Power seems fine, doesn't miss, hesitate etc. Sounds like a massive amount of low-octane detonation, but its not pinging, just similar sound... bunch of small marbles in a coffee can. Raises with RPM mostly, however I noted when driving on interstate when transitioning from cruise/accel to off throttle decel it got worse! Then when accelerating again, it would quiet down, until cruise or decel. I am leaning towards lifters, not knowing what all was done during the claimed top-end redo 50k miles ago....and it sounds very much like loose rocker arms would make a Chevy sound, the metallic clacking. I'll do the old school stethoscope around the heads etc. tonight to see if I can't pinpoint the location a bit more precise. But wondering if this is something already experienced/common and my "search button" skills are just rusty Its really odd as it doesn't seem to affect performance, or if it is I obviously wouldn't know since I bought it like this and only had the truck a week now. Oil has been changed at dealer throughout its service life, and is clean now. I'll check the trans again, as I wasn't paying as much attention the night I brought her home, just made sure the level was good.

Question 3: I have a coolant leak, evidence by green gooey mess located in the center/front of the engine. It appears there is a coolant tube located near (top of the water pump) front center? I'll check the hose clamps and hose ends, but again, wondering if this might be a common issue where a plastic bit or metal tube o-ring etc., might be culrpit.

Question 4: Will door panels from an Expedition fit the F150?

Moving on to Plan, after addressing the three (3) issues above.
Plan 1: Hot solder the odometer loose cold-solder pin connector so the darn odometer stops blacking out on me after hitting bumps.

Plan 2: Replace the DPFE, EGR Back Pressure Sensor Switch, clip-on style. Code thrown indicates its bad, Rockauto has it for $18, local parts shops want $28. I order a lot from Rockauto so will place that order with other stuff.

Plan 3: Replace both upstream O2 sensors, both thrown codes, and with the mileage on the truck I expected to do this, $26/ea from RA. Although it may end up being the M.A.S., I'll get cleaner and clean that while I'm at it, clear the code and if they both come back I'll replace the M.A.S. then.

Plan 4: Install Spal power window kit, replace the passenger side lock motor, install cruisecontrol.com's Rostra kit with factory Ford switch lever.

Plan 5: Dual 16" Efan setup with current controller. I read all the different write-ups and like the access given after doing this mod, as well as the minute power reclaim.

Plan 6 (with Question): Swap out the XL Solid bench seat for 40/60 style bench, want a folding armrest w/ cupholders or one that opens with storage in it....need model/year suggestions. If not, then I'll order a Qualitex seat the way I want it. I almost grabbed me an Expedition seat this w/e, but the salvage yard wouldn't power up the drivers seat so I could access the back bolt and nut! Is there a way to manually move the power seat?

Plan 7: Swap out Non-LSD #19 rear axle with a LSD same 3.55 gearing model, from a salvage yard.

Plan 8: Calmax/DJM 2" lowering arms, I thought about spindles but don't want to have to swap to 18" wheels. Of course shackles and hangers out back.

I want to have these items addressed prior to Christmas. Then I'll take a week off, prep the truck and paint it back to OEM Highland Green Metallic, the hood and roof have suffered AZ sun beating them and its needing a refinish. I have a fender to prep and paint now to get rid of the unsightly wrinkles in the passenger side, but just a quickie job until I do the entire Truck this winter. Sounds will probably be last.

Thanks in advance for answers, help, assistance and welcomes.

 

So question 3, the coolant pipe that connects to the top of the water pump, appears that's where the leak is from. Is there an o-ring there?

Plan 2 & 3: while buying hood struts, I decided to go ahead and pick me up one of the pocket scanners. I left the store, opened it up, plugged it in, verified one more time the codes, same as before, and then cleared them.... should have done this last week when I picked the truck up. Drove around 15-20min including a WOT blast and no more CEL. Not sure what conditions the DPFE needs to set the code, but the O2's will either set in the morning after she's fully cooled down, or not reset. I of course am hoping they will not come back on and that since the connectors on at least the B2S1 is clean and appears new that maybe after performing the required parts replacement they just didn't clear the codes! First step in troubleshooting, always trust but verify. Hopefully the $ spent on the scanner is not topped by the $ spent on needing O2's or DPFE.

And what's up guy and gals, >50 views and no replies?

 

So this morning, after fully cooling down, the 1401, 0171 and 0174 codes were back, all three immediately. So I picked up a new DPFE sensor and some CRC Mass Sensor cleaner, got home, cleaned the MAS and then installed the DPFE.....now to get her to cool down again so I can see if its going to throw the codes again.

After talking wit TheSuspensionSource, Plan 8 is changing. Will be getting the 2/4 drop from them + shocks, so that'll be end of the month ordering.....yippee

 

The new DPFE sensor fixed the 1401 code.

I still get P0171 & 0174 after running from cold start. Once codes set I can immediately clear them and they will not set again until fully cooled down. Checked for vacuum leaks and nothing. Thinking its either MAF sensor since its only when cold or possibly the Isolator bolts/plenum seal....just thinking that would be vacuum which in theory would set code if cold or warm and would reset as soon as cleared....or am I off track?