Ok. ProjectSHO89 was right. On a different thread he posted the file attached. I'm sure this is where my problem originates (anti tamper ignition switch and RAP module). So given that I have 2 keys and no fob, how do I reset the RAP module? Or can I just replace it? Thanks for the help guys

 

The RAP module can be replaced, of course, but if the replacement module has the incorrect inputs you'll still have problems until any issues with inputs are resolved.

Keys don't matter, all that is needed is a $2 key from the hardware store for this system. Remotes can be purchased inexpensively or recycled from a similar era Ford, if desired, and then programmed into a fully functional RAP module. If the module is triggered, it won't allow entry into the remote programming mode though.

If you want to truly diagnose the issue, you'd need a scan tool or OBDII adapter that can access that module so you can see what it's actually complaining about. The tool would need to be able to read the ISO 9141 signals on pin 7 of the DLC.

 

I have a BlueDriver OBDII scanner that gave me these codes:
b1867: Ignition key in circuit fault
b1352: Battery Power Supply (ECU) Circuit Short to Ground

Thanks for the note about the keys.

 

I basically did the same as this guy in the video and it led to all my problems.
I don't get it. He has a more advanced security system and he doesn't get an alarm when he pulls the ignition lock cylinder out, and I do get an alarm. At this point I'm thinking to replace the key with a VIN specified key from the hardware store. I wonder if its possible the key was loose enough that the contacts weren't made when the key was pulled out. The lock cylinder technically could move, but the circuit wasn't actually completed. My other options are to replace the anti tamper switch and the RAP module.

 

Update:
I tested all my fuses and the relays associated with anti-theft and everything checked out. I found some other threads about GEM modules going out due to windshield leakage. My windshield has been significantly cracked (since I bought it) and I recently noticed some moisture on the driver's side fuse panel cover, which is connected to the GEM. I believe a bad GEM module could cause this kind of anti theft malfunction, correct? And also, the RAP module is in a similar location. I may try a new GEM and RAP module if they're not too expensive from a scrap yard. And if it works, I'll be replacing the windshield as well.

 

How did you test the starter interrupt relay? Specifically...

The GEM module cannot cause a "no crank" issue.

 

Measured ohms across parallel and non-parallel pins with a multimeter. I didn't use a power source to see if it clicked on and off, so technically it could still be bad. You think I have a starter interrupt relay stuck on?

 

You're getting distracted or hoping that something simple happened at the exact same time that you created the problem. Go back to when it worked right, and look at what you did right before it started working wrong.

 

Right, if only it were that easy.

 

I want to make sure you've correctly located and identified that particular relay. It's in a particularly unusual location. Where was the relay you tested located at?