On the way home from work today I was merging onto the interstate and the acceleration was really rough. Rough to the point to where I didn't think I'd get up to speed to keep up with interstate traffic. When I got it home the motor sounded way too clean to have an issue there. I took the wife's truck to get a fuel filter and did the swap. I took the truck back out and it improved but still isn't 100%. Now I only test drove it for about a 2 mile round trip.


Filter needed to be changed none the less. Any ideas from you guys?

 

Search is coming up with hits all over the board. Looks like I have to start picking items off the list.

 

Has it thrown any codes?

 

I would clean the MAF. It is good maintenance and easy to do. Just spray it down with MAF cleaner available at any parts store. If you haven't done it recently, change the PCV valve. This probably is not your problem but it is cheap maintenance (less than $10) and it keeps your engine running fresh. I would also do an inspection for damaged vacuum lines and replace any that are leaking. Sometimes adding a bottle of fuel system cleaner to a tank of gas will also clean things up and get your truck running better. if the Air cleaner is dirty, change that also.

 

I need to check. I meant to today when I got the new fuel filter but forgot. The check engine light isn't on, but I think the bulb is blown. It was on due to an O2 sensor issue. The codes were never cleared and the light just went off one day while driving.

 

I'll hit the MAF. I havent done that. The PCV valve has been replaced. I did that about a month ago when I had rough idle. There was a nice hole in one of the elbows. I check the other hoses as well and they seemed fine. Air filter is coming with the next oil change in 2K miles and I throw a bottle of fuel cleaner in every oil change too.

I'll figure this out. Just going to take time and hopefully not too much money.

 

Your problem also sounds a little like the EGR valve. However, this problem should be throwing a code. If you do have an EGR code, you can clean the EGR to get it moving freely. When you take it off to clean, check the line that runs to the EGR from the manifold to make sure it is not clogged. I do this by running a wire through the line.

 

From a post you have in another thread about the problem, I'll past it here, -

"Seems to be just before OD hits because I can accelerate through it and it's fine again until about 60 - 62. My mechanic was finely able to feel it today at 45."

Yea, that's a bad coil. Dead ringer.

Now you need to figure out which one or just purchase a new set of Motorcraft coils.

There's a guy selling Motorcraft sets cheap right now, deals like this don't come around often. There's 3 people from this site who have got a set from this guy that I know of so far. So if it's time (sounds like it) grab a set while they last.

I 'll get the link... -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Ford...mtr&rmvSB=true


Other than that, you'll probably spend just as much or more having someone work on it attempting to determine which one it is.

If someone has a phone and adapter, you can monitor live cylinder misfire data to determine which coil it is, then replace the bad coil. The dealership can mode 6 it for a price (cylinder history lookup).

Thing is, it all cost money. When coils begin to go like yours are , it'll be one this week, another a few months later and so on. Best bet is to go with a fresh set right off the bat and be done with it. You can replace them yourself. I've heard you can turn a wrench.

 

So entertain me because I don't know, will the coils give the spiked readings that he was getting? Why would he want to change the plugs first rather than the coils? For him, I'd think he'd want to go the coil route over the plugs since the plugs have a history of snapping during extraction.

 

Holy **** I'm confused. He? Him?

Aren't you he and him?