So friday I picked up a 2000 lariat f150 4x4 with the 5.4 for only $450. I now know why it was so cheap.... I knew the intake leaked and already ordered a cheap replacement from amazon (couldnt find oem intake anywhere online) but once I checked the coolant reservoir I smelled the undeniable smell of exhaust fumes and noticed the reservoir has a greyish tint inside from the fumes.
So .... Looks like ill be doing the head gaskets Also looks like I checked everything but the reservoir when I bought the truck, I think seeing the coolant pooled under the intake and seeing it wasnt a funny color made me forget to check reservoir.
Oh well, only paying $450 and doing heads which might cost me another $500-$800 if i replace things like timing chains/tensioners , waterpump etc..... I will still be at around $1000 and hopefully have a reliable truck. It had almost no power when I drove it home and almost didnt make it. I think it could be a combo of failed headgasket, leaking intake which is also causing misfires.

Thats the gamble though.... I dont know how long it was driven in this condition and its got 250k on the clock But if it was well maintained .... I know these modular bottom ends can last to 500k ..... but I dont know that it was


It sat under a carport for a long time....It was so dirty I didnt know if it was black or dark green untill I got it home.

Im pretty much set on doing the head gaskets anyway to reduce the thought of me getting screwed if/when/hopefully its running good after doing heads. Im mechanically inclined and have done several head gasket jobs before. Im pretty versed in ford mod motors after owning several 4.6s, this will be 2nd 5.4 2v, and a 6.8 2v v10.

I will be doing a combustion leak test today to confirm its a headgasket. A buddy is telling me exhaust smell in the coolant doesnt mean its a headgasket which I think is BS.... how else is it going to get in there???? The intake is under vacuum, he thinks its getting in from there but I think its not possible unless it was pressurized from a bent valve which would probably blow a hole in the intake.

Anyway... I had a few questions for those that have done this job before. Ive done trigger wheel, timing chains/tensioners on these motors before but never pulled the heads. so....

• Is there anyway to remove front clip to make access easier or is it welded in and only fenders can come off?

• Ive been having issues finding oem parts lately at places like rockauto,amazon,other parts sites.... anyone have suggestion on which gasket kit I should use?

• Is there spark plug inserts I should buy and give to machine shop when I have my heads decked? Do I just tell them I want heads cleaned/ checked/ and decked and inserts installed?

• When I did timing chains on my 6.8 v10 I used the cam lock tools to lock camshafts from turning while installing new items. Should I leave the cam lock tools on the heads when I take them in or will I need to remove the cams before I take them in? I understand the timing proccess when heads are not removed as you place the crank keyway at around 11-12 o clock and if your cam reference marks arent at 11 and 12 you rotate the crank/cams one full turn until they are. If I just put heads back in and position cam reference marks to 11 and 12 how do I know they are on correct stroke? Hope that made sense

• Are head bolts re-useable or I need to order new ones?

• I plan to replace waterpump, timing chains/tensioners/guides while im in there. Possibly the oil pump. Intake manifold......Anything else I should replace or check while in there?

• Am I completely crazy?

 

Is there anyway to remove front clip to make access easier or is it welded in and only fenders can come off?
No, the inner fenders and structure is part of the cab. It would be easier to remove the whole cab if you have room. There are several articles that can found online on how to do that. Headgaskets can be done with the engine in place. If you do the job with engine in place you will need to install the rear right head bolts in the head before you place it on the engine. Also , torquing the head bolts in the rear right can be fun.

Ive been having issues finding oem parts lately at places like rockauto,amazon,other parts sites.... anyone have suggestion on which gasket kit I should use?
I've used FelPro and have never had an issue.

Is there spark plug inserts I should buy and give to machine shop when I have my heads decked? Do I just tell them I want heads cleaned/ checked/ and decked and inserts installed?
Depending on the casting, year, etc. you may not need inserts. Not all engines had issues with threads. Your machinist can advise you.

When I did timing chains on my 6.8 v10 I used the cam lock tools to lock camshafts from turning while installing new items. Should I leave the cam lock tools on the heads when I take them in or will I need to remove the cams before I take them in?
Take the tool off or the machinist will or you may not get it back. The machinist will remove the tool to do their work. You can do the job without locking the cams but will need to be very careful.

If I just put heads back in and position cam reference marks to 11 and 12 how do I know they are on correct stroke?
The crane keyway will be aligned toward the left cylinder bank when you begin. Then follow new timing set instructions or that are plenty of posts here or on the internet to show how to do this. It is not difficult.

Are head bolts re-useable or I need to order new ones?
Head bolts are not reusable.

I plan to replace waterpump, timing chains/tensioners/guides while im in there. Possibly the oil pump. Intake manifold......Anything else I should replace or check while in there?
Always check the exhaust manifolds for cracks and look at the cylinder walls and piston tops. Always replace the rubber heater hose under the intake manifold .

Am I completely crazy?
I am not a psychiatrist so I can't diagnose you. This is a time consuming job but you will likely have a nice running truck when you are done. Just be careful and follow all instructions, especially with the timing chains.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!
Heres a shot of the coolant pooled under the intake, but check out the oil on pas cam cover. Not sure if this is indication of bad head gasket or cam cover gasket.




I let the truck run about 10 min then put the tester on, within a few minutes it turned to a very light greenish yellow. So would you take this as confirmation to pull the heads?

 

If you want further confirmation, a compression test will not only provide a firm answer but also locate exactly where the problem is.

In reading the instructions for the test fluid, that is a positive result for exhaust gases in the coolant. Head gaskets are usually the culprit but there is the possibility of a crack in a casting somewhere.

At this time you have an engine that runs poorly, leaks coolant at the intake, and appears to have several oil leaks, and appears to have a failed head gasket. You really have only a couple choices; sell truck, driveway ornament, replace engine with known good, or open up engine to find the issue and fix it.

If you open up the engine and then feel you need a replacement, well you are part way through the removal.