Eddie Espinoza

I have a 2000 triton v8 lariat. I'm the second owner. Just got it last June from the owner.
One month ago I realized that I had a coolant leak near the engine that lead to a code reader saying I am running on 3 working cylinders.
1) how can I tell if it's the master cylinder or not
2) how do I make repairs?
3) is it worth repairing?

mandingo32

I can answer number 3 for you with a simple question, Do YOU think the truck is worth it? I'm the second owner of a 99 that was taken care of. It sat for 2 years before I bought it. Overall, it was a solid truck.

Day one of driving it I had to buy a new battery. Vacuum plumbing has been replaced. New alternator, new radiator. I've installed new plugs and COPs.

Mechanically, it's right now and all of that totals a couple months of a new truck payment. Make it yours. Put your touch on it and roll with it.

If taken care of these trucks can literally last a life time.

Jbrew

You can cut back the hose where attaches to the heater core hard-line a little. Replace that cheap clamp Ford uses. It's the wrong kind anyway. Use a heat clamp that expands and contacts instead. It'll last a good long while.

If 3 in missing, there's a good chance 3 and 4 plug chambers have coolant in them. Blow them out with compressed air. 3 might fire again given a chance to dry out a bit.

No biggy, easy fix, - even worst case scenario.

R&TBabich

Is your engine the 4.6L or 5.4L?
What are the codes you are getting?
A coolant leak spraying on the engine can cause a series of cylinder misfirings. You would need to pull the COPs off the misfiring cylinders and dry out the boots and spark plug recesses.
What exactly are you asking when you say "master cylinder"? The master cylinder is a brake system part.

rcairbear

First off welcome to the forum!- if you own a '97-'03 F-150, there is tons of knowledge in these fellers and they are more than willing to help!- but, its always better to give more info, than less- sounds like youre a younger feller or real new to trucks- no matter- if folks ask questions, and you dont understand,say so!- these guys will work with you.
Now.... what year, model,engine,transmission,4x4 or 2wheel drive-some items on these trucks change from year to year-

mbb

double post

mbb

Worth it or not...depends on a lot of factors

You, and the trucks.

These are GREAT trucks, that hold up very very well for their age, if you dont live where they salt the roads in winter apparently.

You can keep them running in great shape for a fraction of what a newer truck costs. If you are willing to fix something now and then, AND if you have the money to do so.

If you dont have money to do repairs, you are always better off with a simpler newer car.

My truck was in good enough shape 2 yrs ago, I spent $7000 on it at 200,000 miles. Reman engine, brakes/rotors, ball joints, tires, new leather seat cover, interior paint touch up, DVD stereo/amp/subwoofer, rear view camera, new headlights, foglights, etc.

Basically, I figure a newer used vehicle even depreciates by $2000 per year, so If I kept my truck at least a couple more years, I break even. Keep it longer....I come out ahead. That was 2+ yrs ago. Spent only $270 since, to replace alternator and battery.

Aragorn

Is it worth it? That really depends on how much you want to work on it. Is the cost of a "new" truck (300-700/month depending on a lot of factors) higher than the cost of fixing the truck. I've heard million mile stories out of this generation (not sure they are real) but if you fix the problem you have now and put 300 a month away in the bank and do repairs as you need them over the long run you'd save up enough to pay for a "new" truck.

But

This method requires you to learn how to fix as much as possible yourself. There are thousands of youtube videos on how to fix various problems and this crew here know these trucks inside and out. Someone has probably fixed or seen whatever you come across. That being said if you are going to fob it off on a mechanic you'll probably spend a lot more than it's worth in most cases.

I know jbrew has 340k + miles on his truck, I'm sitting at 280k miles (and still need to do some work.)

If you've never worked on cars and want to learn this truck is a good platform and these forums are invaluable. Just help us help you by giving all details possible (Engine is very important as there are..........quirks to each engine.)

squishware

You have to be as serious about maintenance as you would be about paying the truck payment every month. I like to look at the "what did you do to your truck today" thread for preventative things that are failing in similar year/milage trucks. I am planning a preemptive strike on my fuel pump at 195k.

10thGenScab

I have owned my truck for exactly one year. I bought it with 194k on it and have completed the following:

3 oil changes (was unsure of previous maint) $90
1 transmission pan drop and filter replacement $70
1 patch of a rust hole on the rear quarter of the bed $30
1 replacement idle air control valve $35
1 replacement air cleaner assembly (replaced K&N) $50
1 replacement air filter $22
1 replacement differential cover and gear oil change $120
1 replacement pinion seal $7
2 replacement U-joints for rear drive shaft: $55
2 replacement upper control arms: $130
2 replacement front shocks: $45
brake job on all four corners: $245
alignment $94
1 replacement thermostat: $12

There's still more work to do, but with this truck I can do truck stuff without spending $300/mo on a lease.
That would be $3600 per year. In the last 12 months I've spent $1k-ish. Heck, throw in another $200 on tools that I didn't have before
and I'm still at a third of a new truck payment. And... most of these repairs won't need to be done again for several years since the beast
gets about 5000 miles per year.

Worth every penny.

/Edit - I forgot transfer case fluid change and front axle oil change as well. Still worth it :-)