jayta98

Hi guys. I did my 1st oil change on my f150. It is a 2001 5.4 with 159k auto tranny. I live FL. The last oil change was done with castrol 20w50 and Fram Ultra filter. I used the same stuff for this oil change.

I was reading online that fram filters are not recommended for our trucks? I did noticed after I did the oil change the oil cap is stamped 5w20. Should I keep using 20w50 or change back to 5w20? Will it be okay to keep using this oil and filter until the next oil change?

Should I start using synthetic oil? I have heard of engines starting to leak oil when they switch to synthetic oil at high mileage? I'm not sure if the previous oil was synthetic.

What you guys recommend? Thanks.

My03fx4

I'm curious as to why somebody put 20w50 in it. It sounds like the previous owner was trying to cover up something such as a failing oil pump. As far as oil I'd run motorcraft semi synthetic 5w20 and a motorcraft filter. Nothing beats what ford originally put in it from the factory.

ibd2328

iTrader: (2)

I run Pennzoil and Motorcraft filters.

rmdailey

I've been running Penz 10w-30 with a fram 3600 filter in my 2000 Ford 4.2 since 2004. 160,000 miles no problems. It's probably a gimmick but I've been using the "High Mileage" Oil for a while. I'm in Texas where it's hot, and 10w-30 is what my dad told me to use. So far so good.

20w-50 seems a little on the heavy side even with FL heat, but that's what's been used for 159k who am I to argue.

tdkkart

I know that early on with the modular motors the rural dealers had problems convincing the old farmers that they should really be using the 5-20 as specified, instead of their old standby 10-30 or 10-40 or even 20-50. Supposedly the thicker oil does not get to the valvetrain quick enough, especially in cold weather, which tends to score the bearing journals in the heads.

Just what I remember hearing a few years ago.........

blupupher

iTrader: (2)

Any 5w20 or 0w20 oil will do what you need.
Motorcraft filters work great and are pretty cheap at walmart.

20w50 does not belong in any engine made in the past 25 years except a few odd exceptions (Air cooled engines in motorcycles mainly), way to thick for any motor spec'ed for 5w20 or 10w30.


tdkkart, yes, thicker oils do not flow as quickly and there have been issues with the timing chain adjuster breaking due to the hydraulic adjusters not being able to get the slack out of the chain fast enough on startup.

jayta98

Well I will replace the oil with 5w20 tomorrow when I get of work. I was thinking the same way about been too thick. I will keep the filter until next change.

Whats your opinions about going to synthetic oil?

Z7What

In my 03 5.4L I ran ONLY Motorcraft 5W20 Syn Blend and Motorcraft Filter. At 92K miles when i blew the motor drag racing(to much timing and leaned out with the blower), wen I pulled the motor apart I was shocked as to how clean it was with NO signs if wear. Cams looked brad new and the cylinder walls still had honing marks. With that being said I found no reason to ever switch from that. With my 2013 5.0L I use nothing but Motorcraft and change every 3K. Plan to get 300K out of her!

Wayne

tonyroc14

My philosophy is as long as you are using the proper weight oils and you change regularly it didn't really matter what you use as long as you change it. But I don't not like fram, they don't filter as well...

earnest13

In my 03 5.4L FX4 Screw with 250K Miles(and going strong) I run Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 oil and Fram Ultra XG2 filter, both good for 15K miles but I usually change between 6-8K miles and the oil still looks good.

I prefer the heavier 5w-30 oil her in the LA/TX heat.

Any good synth or semi/synth oil and a quality syn media filter like M1, RP, Bosch, & Fram will serve you well for a long time.