Well, two reasons for putting 93 octane in it is. The gas can I had recently filled I put 93 octane in it because that's what is recommended for my mower so it's what I had on hand and because the truck was low on fuel and with the issues I'm trying not to drive it more than I need to for testing.

I was checking the power balance because that's what the manual says to do when diagnosing a cam synchronizer. It says to run it, and if there are no missfires then to disconnect Injector #1 and check power balance again and see what the #1 is doing. If it shows no power, then the synchro is good but if it shows power on #1, then it's either bad or improperly installed.

I have done both KOEO and KOER tests, nothing came out of either.

 

Maniak,

Please understand that everything I write here is to help you get your truck fixed. Nobody is getting paid for the time and experience they have given you.

Before I posted #50 I went back and reread your entire thread a couple of times and that was after I had decided to bow out of your thread. A couple of thoughts about what's gone on summarizes your entire thread.

akdoggie was on the Cam Syncro in #10 and in #49 you put up screen shots of power balance. Think about that.

How many times between #10 and #49 have you claimed "fixed" only to come back with "No it's not?" Your entire thread reads like a video game. One post is about picking up a prize or reward, another is about red flags, land mines and warnings and mixed in it all is a whole lot of rabbit holes and levels.

Some really sharp people have tried to help you with your truck only to find out your method of troubleshooting is to start by picking the solution to an unknown problem. The people trying to help you can't and don't relate to your troubleshooting method of dropping the procedures required at any given time because you catch something new and shiney out the corner of your eye.

Referencing my #50 and your #51 (so as to not drag anyone else in to this); It's good that you ran the self tests but there is a lot more in the video that seems to have gone down a rabbit hole.

93 Octane and this is what you said: Well, two reasons for putting 93 octane in it is. The gas can I had recently filled I put 93 octane in it because that's what is recommended for my mower so it's what I had on hand and because the truck was low on fuel and with the issues I'm trying not to drive it more than I need to for testing.

Are you saying 93 Octane is OK in a Ford F150 with a 4.2 is fine because it's the gas that's recommended for your mower or are you saying 93 doesn't matter and has no effect on the sensors and tests you're running? The bottom line is I have to accept that in your opinion and experience, 93 is not a problem for you or your truck because you didn't question why I asked you about it.

Finally, I offered a link to a video that blows up your power balance screen shots to pin point information. The link is an explanation of what's packed in to your screen shots and how to interpret the information it's giving and you. You have no question about the video and completely disregard it. Remember, you came here asking for help.

Of the many forum members that have attempted to help you I imagine there is a fair level of frustration among them from making the attempt. Some sharp professional and garage mechanics have given you their time because they enjoy solving problems and you've missed entirely what it is they are really offering you. Each one of them has over time gathered the necessary experience to develope a troubleshooting process that works for them. We know It works for them because they're solving the problems that come their way.

I suggest you give up on jumping in and out of, for lack of better terms, the "apprentice-journeyman" relationship and let the people trying to help lead you through their troubleshooting process. You should consider paying more attention to the processes being freely demonstrated for your benefit and less attention to the nuance and munitia to the problems with your truck. Isn't that the help you've asked for. There's no guarantees about solutions to problems via a forum but I can guarantee you this, if you should hit upon the solution(s) to your trucks problems it will be because someone else got you there whether the solution comes out of this forum or not. BUT, there isn't a forum member here that doesn't want your truck fixed as much as you do.

 

Are you serious dude?

I only thought the problem was "fixed" once. That was the post were I received the IAT code and replaced the sensor and the truck was driving fine for a day. No one helped me come to that at all when I had posted that. A month later I post that the trouble had come back and the trouble shooting I did. akdoggie AND YOU, told me to replace the EGR, I replaced the EGR and the DPFE just as you two advised. Intake manifold gaskets and vacuum leaks were mentioned by several members, so I checked for both and found none of the above. I was asked to show you guys pictures of my plugs, I pulled the plugs and uploaded pictures as requested.

I have followed the advise of everyone in this thread and posted my progress as asked. You asked me why I put 93 octane in, I explained why. I have been nothing but compliant with the people offering their assistance and in no way belittled them or questioned their knowledge.

Currently, White and akdoggie are both suggesting I investigate the cam synchro and compression. Keep in mind, neither of them told me HOW to check the cam synchro. I know how to check compression, but I've never looked into a cam synchro before. So I did my research. Multiple Ford manuals refer to utilizing Power Balance to identify a malfunctioning or improperly installed cam synchro. So I did a power balance to help identify, I posted the initial results. I haven't proceeded with the 2nd part of the test yet because I haven't had the time today. I am literally looking into the Cam Synchro as both White and akdoggie suggested.

I watched both of your videos and I even commented stating that I have ran both of those tests multiple times with no results. I do not personally own compression testing equipment but a buddy of mine does and I can get my hands on it this weekend.

If you don't want to help then don't help. But don't sit there and type out a nastygram accusing me of not taking the advise and direction of the folks in this forum. I have done everything they, and you, have asked of me. I have run every test, replaced every part, uploaded every picture.

I greatly appreciate all the advise and assistance provided and I, in no way, think it's owed to me.

 

You check it by pulling it out. That is why I asked if it had ever been out. You need to check the roll pins.... especially if it has an aftermarket unit in it already. They like to bend and shear, and if they shear clear off, it could mean catastrophic engine failure. I think your issue may be because when you rev it, the PCM advances the timing, then can't figure out WTH is going on - so it dies. Then the PCM resets when you start it again. I've had one that was one tooth off before in a 5.0 - it idled OK. But as the rpm's increased, the PCM wigged out. I don't recall if the motor died.... but it ran awful in the upper rpm.

BTW. River is not trying to rub you wrong. He just knows that after a while, a lot of us will lose interest because things we've suggested seemingly get passed over and easily forgotten. River recognized our trend and merely offered a warning. I'd like to help you out.

 

I gotcha, when you guys told me to check the cam synchro I looked up how to do it in my ford manual and it said to run a baseline power balance, then pull the plug to the #1 cylinder injector and then run another power balance. If #1 cylinder falls flat, then it's good, if it doesn't, then it's bad or was improperly installed. I guess there's two ways to skin that cat.

I should hopefully have time after work tomorrow to get into it, I did look into the process of removal/installation as well just in case and it does appear to be something that can become time consuming based on the manual but I did read that some people were successful in removal/installation without pulling coolant hoses and stuff. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress as I get through it.

Thanks again!

 

I know it's been awhile, I was sent out of town for work so I wasn't able to get the work done.

So the Cam Synchro and Sensor have been replaced and nothing has changed. It looked like the Synchro/sensor that was on it was not set properly too as it was set at engine center. I set the engine to TDC, installed the new Synchro at 54 Degrees from engine center to ensure it's set properly. I'm hoping to get my buddies compression tester soon.

 

So while I am waiting for my buddy to bring his compression tester over this weekend. I decided to look further into that odd knock sensor reading I was seeing. I wanted to unplug the sensor and see if it changed.

So I reached behind the driver side cylinder head and..... there's nothing there. I can feel the bolt hole, but no sensor. I can't even find the plug on the harness for it.

Any ideas?

 

Never mind, found it on the passenger side of the block.

 

So the knock sensor is fine. Buddy was able to come today with his compression gauge and all Cylinders are reading between 125-130....I think I'm done with this thing. Judging by how quiet this thread has gotten I imagine you guys are too.

Thanks again for all the help!