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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Poor acceleration and throws code

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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 06:59 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 01fifty
My bad. I thought those were called coil packs. They are just coils then? Black boot that snaps on the plug through the intake and has a connector snapped on to it.
No worries, many call them what they're not. But yea, just coils dedicated to one cylinder where as coils "packs" are in charge of more than just one....a pack of cylinders.
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 09:42 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
No worries, many call them what they're not. But yea, just coils dedicated to one cylinder where as coils "packs" are in charge of more than just one....a pack of cylinders.
So should I do another plug replacement and replace all coils? I recently replaced all plugs with motorcraft and only replaced the #2 coil. Should I replace all plugs with iridium plugs?
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 10:13 PM
  #13  
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I ran Iridium's for awhile, the burn wasen't right with them. They were good at first. I pulled them at 30k and they were black. Went back to Motorcraft and the burn was corrected. When they are running right with Motorcrafts, they will be a little whitish, like a tint. Normal as they run a little lean from the get go.

When I was at 165,000 miles it was a slug. Went thru it, purchased a set a motorcraft coils (249 for complete set on e bay), plugs and refurbished injectors. The truck went from slug to feeling light, quick and responsive...night and day really. It's a little pricey but needed imo if your up there in miles. O2 sensors go for 100,000 miles easy. Replace all 4 at the same time and she'll run great for a very long time. So it depends what your after, sounds like you ready for major tune -up...big difference hitting all that at once though.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 09:24 AM
  #14  
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What gap are you running with your Motorcrafts? Maybe I have the wrong gap. I got this truck about a year ago and maybe these issues are why I got it for a steal. I will go through it as you suggested. It has 176k on it now and I don’t know how well it was treated when I got it. Or what was replaced.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 03:34 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 01fifty
So should I do another plug replacement and replace all coils? I recently replaced all plugs with motorcraft and only replaced the #2 coil. Should I replace all plugs with iridium plugs?
I would restart at post #2 and post #5. akd already suggested that you'll be wasting money and parts, and now here you are talking about replacing coils and plugs. Again. You're shooting in the dark.
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Old Jan 8, 2018 | 11:02 PM
  #16  
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Okay so I plugged my code reader, p0352 showed up, cleared it. Started it up, running great. Drive her around town and on orchard roads. Running great. Merge on the freeway, notice a hesitation under acceleration, like it’s not advancing, service engine light comes on. Running rough now, drive about a 1/4 mile and get off the freeway. As I am coming to the stop light, light turns off, running great again. Take side roads all of the way home, running great. In my driveway idling awesome, plug in code reader, p0352. No one else has had this issue? And to be clear it doesn’t do this all of the time but sometimes...
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Old Jan 10, 2018 | 11:07 PM
  #17  
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This sure sounds like a bad #2 coil to me. You said you "swapped the (coils) and the issue came back," but did you check the codes after swapping and having the issue reappear? If you swap #2 and #4, and your code changes to follow, then you've positively (well, usually) identified the bad coil. If it stays on #2, then next most-likely is a bad #2 plug, followed by a faulty fuel injector, and finally a head gasket leak or cracked head/block. (The gasket/head/block issues would be low in probability given the intermittent nature of the problem).

EDIT: I'm not certain that a bad plug, FI, or other faults above will set the p035x code.

Last edited by OhioLariat; Jan 10, 2018 at 11:17 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2018 | 08:58 PM
  #18  
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I agree totally. When you have a a low grade misfiring coil and clear the DTC, the pcm will force fire the coil momentarily for a short time. Like say 20 miles or so. It has this capability because NOT ALL of the windings in the coil have sheared yet, -it's not totally dead but close.

Anyway, the description now points directly at the coil. This can happen to new coils or old. Specially IF the battery was connected when working around them.
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 07:10 AM
  #19  
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I have a 2001 that does the same thing pretty much. When I’m in like a passing gear it kinda clunks/grinds into gear then when I punch the throttle to the floor it just boggles down till I let up off the gas pedal a bit. If I feather the gas pedal it helps but not always.
It could be ur MAS sensor or your egr valve. Check the hoses and make sure there’s no breaks or cracks. Also check your coils pacs as well as your Idler air control valve and your TBS-throttle body sensor. Hope some of these ideas help ya. For some it does and some not I’m on the issue of it still happening unfortunately! Best of luck to ya sir!
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Old Jan 19, 2020 | 09:23 AM
  #20  
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This thread is 2 years old. I'm sure he's figured it out by now or bought something else
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