Number four popped out today but I managed to thread it back in and it's still working.

2001 Expedition with 5.4 and 160K

I've had the truck since around 120K

Last week i changed the intake. (had some problems that were solved in another thread)

During the intake swap i changed the plugs. One of them came out with a big steel insert attached so obviously there were some problems during the first 100K.

It was after I got the whole thing back together andrunning right htat I read about the increased torque that should be applied to these pluge to keep them in. I did not torque them, i just drove them in to what I felt was the right torque. Obviously not enough.

So, I'm thinking I should go back and torque the plugs to the right spec and add some sort of loc-tite product to keep them in.

Can I get some specific recommendations?

thanks

 

Loctite green or anti seize thread compound will work to hold them in, blue if it makes you more comfortable. Green is light, blue is medium strength.
Red is the highest grade made for brake caliper, head bolts and the like. You don't want red!

According to the shop that changed the plugs on my '02 4.6L the original Ford specs were 13-15 ft lbs torque but revised that to 25 ft lbs because of issues like yours. They (and many others) highly recommend using Motorcraft plugs over any other brand.

Seems there is only 4 or 5 threads holding the plugs in. Which also contributed to plugs freezing and breaking....as you discovered with the repaird plug and insert.

There are a lot of YouTube videos available for additional suggestions and tips.

 

Dont locktite them thats stupid. 26 lbs DRY no antisieze

 

The preferred spec is 28 ft lbs, DRY. And if you didn't use Motorcraft plugs, I suggest you save yourself some time and swap those out at the same time.

FYI... anti-seize is for the 3V plugs. Not 2V.

 

Actually, the only correct info in this post is Fords original plug torque spec. Everything else is incorrect sorry. Mentioning so you and others are aware.

 

Yea , I attempted to help you here in your first thread, right off and at the beginning of your last thread this one, -

https://www.f150forum.com/f6/mechani...e-crap-374017/

But you failed to answer the questions for some reason. I see your still not providing all your info so we can help you better. I don't understand why you won't post up the parts your trying to use. Your beginning a new thread, same thing, you won't provide the important info. Any reason for this ? You ask for specific recommendations, but don't give specifics or have answered questions from users who have been attempting to help you. Your last thread, page 4 or 5 you post the problem is fixed lol. This is why it is not TOTALLY fixed. Help us help you.

 

Since Jan2005, I HAD owned a 2002 F150 Lariat SuperCrew from 45K on the odometer until 138K when I sold it last year. I'm mechanically inclined but not certified or that neighbor that has more motors in his yard than plants

I NEVER used my truck to tow. I did move furniture and similar items a few times, not a lead foot, did most of my own maintenance (Oil, lube, rotors, suspension, tierods, pads, radio, sensors, plugs,...)

I popped a plug cruising on the hwy at about 55-60MPG, took me about a year after thorough research, buying tools, to DECIDE to fix it as opposed to junking it.

My research led me to buying the Calvan 38900 Tool Kit. it's time consuming and gets tedious but I had virtually no problem repairing the hole. It comes with everything you need but threadlocker. And you really don't need an Air Ratchet but you will need a compressor to blowout the shavings that'll end up in the cylinder. And I suggest buying one of those long thin air nozzles for that.

If you're keeping the truck; I highly suggest getting that kit or one similar. Again, I did a lot of research.

I may still have the kit somewhere, for I sold my truck about 6months later to upgrade to 4wd, nav, camera,...a 2015.

If the truck was 4wd and had more modern stuff; I know I'd kept it. Best vehicle I've owned for the money.

 

I picked up a used timesert kit for $150 then ordered inserts from timesert get some locktite. I used a vacuum to get any chips out if there were anyy you grease the tap to get it to hold the chips so its unlikely there was any chips but still I duct tape a tube on to a wet dry vac. I took my sweet time greasing the tool several times. Took maybe 2 hours. It's easy. If your skill level is high enough to do the plugs you can install a tmesert.
Here is the youtube instruction video just follow the steps. easy.

 

jethat
I guess I should've used a thicker weight of oil/grease? But after I was finished it was a lot of shavings in that cylinder. Oh, I also had a camera to check the hole but even if you can't get it all (and you really don't know if you did); I was sure to change my oil, ran it for a few 100miles more and changed it again.

It was easier than I thought it would be but it is time consuming.

I only messed up buying an Air Ratchet and compressor (too large size) that I didn't really need, especially the Ratchet.

The truck was dang near perfect since I owned it if not for that head/plug issue. Disappointed Ford didn't take responsibility for that obvious flaw in that Head design. They changed the torque specs for the plugs a few times, as if that was the problem.

 

Like said I vacuumed the hole real good with a tube duct taped to a vacuum hose if anything fell in the hole I'm sure that took it out. My truck has been fine ever since. Kept the tool and some spare inserts. just in case..