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Hi guys i have Rough Country Lift Coils and went to get aligned and was told that my camber adjustment is maxed out. I still have negative camber. Do i still have some adjusment left by looking at cam bolts ? Ive seen alot of people use same lift with no issues?
Drivers side is F'ed, way too much caster...must pull like a biatch,. Yea, this side is out of wack..severely lol. You have the arm adjustment at "0" and the other about 90%...not good. The "0" must of came loose at some point and vibed out. I can't say what that might ride or look right..haven't seen one that far out yet. Wheel probably looks turned in or out (toed) with that much castor lol.
Passenger should be close, you have a little more to play with, -@ about 90% though.
I align myself then have it checked (IF it's been apart or new treads are going on). My concern is with camber not caster. On the 150, adjusting camber alone will usually keep you in the green on caster...so that's all I do and it checks out. Just do it yourself on that truck. But if you do and then take it in for alignment, you MUST tell you want them to fine tune the alignment. Otherwise they will do nothing as it will be in the green, Like I said, camber alone gets it real close with caster with theses particular front ends.
Not at max, but close! I would first 0 out the drivers, make sure it's loose and off the ground for this. Keep the 90% like the one is currently, but loosen both on that side, 0 them both out, then bring both back up to 90% evenly and equally. You'll need to road it so settles before checking camber correctly on that side.
BTW- the only time this occurs usually (unless you have severely worn parts), is when you have way too much crank on the bars. This will beat you and front end to death driving less than perfect roads lol. Less crank = less Camber. A good lift kit shouldn't require a bar crank. If they do, you getting ripped off, so is your ride.
Drivers side is F'ed, way too much caster...must pull like a biatch,. Yea, this side is out of wack..severely lol. You have the arm adjustment at "0" and the other about 90%...not good. The "0" must of came loose at some point and vibed out. I can't say what that might ride or look right..haven't seen one that far out yet. Wheel probably looks turned in or out (toed) with that much castor lol.
Passenger should be close, you have a little more to play with, -@ about 90% though.
I align myself then have it checked (IF it's been apart or new treads are going on). My concern is with camber not caster. On the 150, adjusting camber alone will usually keep you in the green on caster...so that's all I do and it checks out. Just do it yourself on that truck. But if you do and then take it in for alignment, you MUST tell you want them to fine tune the alignment. Otherwise they will do nothing as it will be in the green, Like I said, camber alone gets it real close with caster with theses particular front ends.
Not at max, but close! I would first 0 out the drivers, make sure it's loose and off the ground for this. Keep the 90% like the one is currently, but loosen both on that side, 0 them both out, then bring both back up to 90% evenly and equally. You'll need to road it so settles before checking camber correctly on that side.
BTW- the only time this occurs usually (unless you have severely worn parts), is when you have way too much crank on the bars. This will beat you and front end to death driving less than perfect roads lol. Less crank = less Camber. A good lift kit shouldn't require a bar crank. If they do, you getting ripped off, so is your ride.
Amazingly it actually does not pull lol. I also have all new front end components as well. I have an appointment Monday to see if we can adjust camber first and then the caster and Both sides have negative camber to the eye. I may just have to remove the spring if no luck getting tires to sit more vertical.
Last edited by Bruno123; 03-30-2018 at 09:44 AM.
Reason: .
Edit* sorry didn't notice OP was a 2wd disregard lower note; it's for 4wd with torsion bars
What's the measurement from center of hub to bottom of fender? Should NOT be more than 24.25". However if you have a body lift, add the body lift amount to 24.25" or same with suspension
Last edited by fordguy2100; 03-30-2018 at 03:42 PM.
Edit: Just realized original post referred to 2wd. My comment below applies to 4wd.
_______
Suspension lift WILL change the measurement from center of hub to bottom of fender. The lift has a longer knuckle that places the hub lower relative to the upper control arm (the front differential is also dropped to keep the axle shafts at the same angle). The measurement should not be more than 24.25" PLUS the amount of suspension lift in the front.
Edit: Just realized original post referred to 2wd. My comment below applies to 4wd.
_______
Suspension lift WILL change the measurement from center of hub to bottom of fender. The lift has a longer knuckle that places the hub lower relative to the upper control arm (the front differential is also dropped to keep the axle shafts at the same angle). The measurement should not be more than 24.25" PLUS the amount of suspension lift in the front.
Hmm never heard anyone mention suspension lift separately but what you say does make sense... I only have a BL (put on my the PO and never again... suspension only lol)
Also yeah didn't realize he has a 2wd, was just packing on jbrews post.
Disregard my post too OP a 2wd doesn't have t-bars
Drivers side is F'ed, way too much caster...must pull like a biatch,. Yea, this side is out of wack..severely lol. You have the arm adjustment at "0" and the other about 90%...not good. The "0" must of came loose at some point and vibed out. I can't say what that might ride or look right..haven't seen one that far out yet. Wheel probably looks turned in or out (toed) with that much castor lol.
Passenger should be close, you have a little more to play with, -@ about 90% though.
I align myself then have it checked (IF it's been apart or new treads are going on). My concern is with camber not caster. On the 150, adjusting camber alone will usually keep you in the green on caster...so that's all I do and it checks out. Just do it yourself on that truck. But if you do and then take it in for alignment, you MUST tell you want them to fine tune the alignment. Otherwise they will do nothing as it will be in the green, Like I said, camber alone gets it real close with caster with theses particular front ends.
Not at max, but close! I would first 0 out the drivers, make sure it's loose and off the ground for this. Keep the 90% like the one is currently, but loosen both on that side, 0 them both out, then bring both back up to 90% evenly and equally. You'll need to road it so settles before checking camber correctly on that side.
BTW- the only time this occurs usually (unless you have severely worn parts), is when you have way too much crank on the bars. This will beat you and front end to death driving less than perfect roads lol. Less crank = less Camber. A good lift kit shouldn't require a bar crank. If they do, you getting ripped off, so is your ride.
JBrew,
I've never aligned something myself. Any good Threads on this to try on my '98? I have an appointment Monday Afternoon and going to ask to adjust Camber to the very max first sacrificing some caster (i say that because i was told there is still some minor adjustment left ) does that sound right? If I understand Caster correctly, as long as their equal it should not pull correct?
Hi guys i have Rough Country Lift Coils and went to get aligned and was told that my camber adjustment is maxed out. I still have negative camber. Do i still have some adjusment left by looking at cam bolts ? Ive seen alot of people use same lift with no issues?
Driver
Driver
Passenger
Passenger
did you ever find a remedy to this just installed this myself and same issue.
03-29-2018, 10:12 AM
Is my Camber adjustment Maxed?
