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"Mushy" brakes

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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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Default "Mushy" brakes

I have had my truck for 3 1/2 years now and never replaced the brakes.yesterday I was driving it and it just seemed off. A little softer than usual. I have had the warped rotor feel for about a mo. time to replace pads and rotors. Picked up premium rotors and premium ceramic pads at carquest today...$140 total!!
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:21 PM
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What kind of rotors did you get?
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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Just the premium from carquest.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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If after you have all the new parts in, if you still get that pulsating feel under braking try braided stainless flex lines up front. I had that problem, so I put in the new lines and now have great brake feel and no pulsation. I ordered mine at 4wheelparts for $55 made by centric.
Attached Thumbnails "Mushy" brakes-image-49154129.jpg   "Mushy" brakes-image-3440685940.jpg  
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:40 PM
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Thanks man!! I've changed brakes before on a Durango. Usually once a year they would tend to get this way. I've owned my truck for over three yrs now and never replaced brakes...feel like I've gotten lucky seeing how I put 60,000 on it since! Haha
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:46 PM
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Flush ALL of the old brake fluid from the lines and then bleed them really well. (You'll probably be amazed how nasty the old brake fluid is.)

After that, bed the new pads properly. Most people skip this step, not realizing how important it is. Proper bedding will make the brake work better and make the rotors last longer. See below, copied from Powerstop's website:


IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BED*DING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.

The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Do not own a brake bleeder nor do I know how.. I may just purchase a kit and braided line in a few weeks then do it. I always break in the pads/rotors though. Thanks for the reminder!!
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Warhammer
Flush ALL of the old brake fluid from the lines and then bleed them really well. (You'll probably be amazed how nasty the old brake fluid is.)

After that, bed the new pads properly. Most people skip this step, not realizing how important it is. Proper bedding will make the brake work better and make the rotors last longer. See below, copied from Powerstop's website:
^ what warhammer said, and if you go this route you can also upgrade to dot 4 brake fluid.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Chulch
Do not own a brake bleeder nor do I know how.. I may just purchase a kit and braided line in a few weeks then do it. I always break in the pads/rotors though. Thanks for the reminder!!
If you have a wrench and an extra person you do not need a brake bleeder. Google to get the procedure. I'm too lazy to type it out. i believe it's a 10mm on the screws and don't let the master get dry.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Tackle
If you have a wrench and an extra person you do not need a brake bleeder. Google to get the procedure. I'm too lazy to type it out. i believe it's a 10mm on the screws and don't let the master get dry.
+1! I have never owned a brake bleeder, yet have successfully bled countless cars, trucks and motorcycles. It's really easy to do the old fashioned way.
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