white89gt

Setting up a R&P alone goes 400 to 600 dollars around here.

BareBonesXL

Seems really high when you look at what's involved. You can buy shim kits for cheap, under $30.

Probably high cost because the process is so mysterious and the results bad if you get it wrong. But as far as effort and time there's not much involved. The diff probably weighs 20 lbs with the ring gear on it. It's heavy but it slides in and out. Slide it in, take your measurement, slide it out, apply appropriate shims and reinstall. 400 to 600 is like three to four hours per job. Maybe that price includes disassembly, ring gear and bearing swap, and reinstall? "Setting up" implies less. Might include the pinion gear also. The goal here is just the carrier. Ring gear, bearings, reinstall.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-55002?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-yukon-gear-axle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3-L8-KDu3wIVlh-tBh3OXgqzEAQYAiABEgIJXfD_BwE

BigEd54

The cost is in the labor to set correct pinion depth. They make gauges but there is no simple measurement that guarantees a correct tooth pattern on the first try. You have to assemble everything and check pattern. If it is off, you have to disassemble everything to change the pinion shims. If it is on, you still have to disassemble to replace the setup bearings with new ones. Tedious, especially on your back.

That's why it is so much easier to reuse the R&P. You can use the same thickness pinion shim, which elimates the multiple teardowns.

BareBonesXL

Thanks for the knowledge. We're on the same page then.

The OP asked for the simplest of the procedures.

white89gt

Call around where you're at. Tell me what shops want to set up a R&P.

BareBonesXL

I mixed up setting gear lash with the full pinion gear depth and lash setting. The full job probably is expensive, my mistake. But still, can be done by the non-pro with time and effort. On the other hand, you added pinion gear setting to the OP's goal of a diff swap. He just wants to swap an open for an LS, he doesn't need the full job. Pinion depth stays the same.

I did mine in my driveway, using a vise in my garage to hold it for the ring gear bolts, and a hammer and time to set the carrier bearings. I was ready to have to go back in to set lash if I got gear howl, but it was a straight swap, not a single problem. I used a Ford Traction-Lock though, so Ford manufacturing specs were used to make it. The open diff I took out was probably exactly like the LS diff I put in. Except the bearings were worn. The old open diff fell out, no preload, even though it only has 75,000 miles on it.

My basic point is don't make it more complicated than it needs to be. Nothing wrong with walking in to a shop and asking what a carrier swap and bearing install would cost.

BigEd54

Yup, in Florida nobody has a basement and attics are unusable b/c of heat, so all your stuff winds up in the garage. Pretty common to see 3 car garages with all vehicles parked outside.

BigEd54

Yes and no. Agreed you can toss in a new LS diff and the only other parts you must replace for sure are your carrier bearings.

HOWEVER ... if your carrier bearings are worn, your pinion bearings and seal are probably worn too. As are your axle bearings, shafts, and seals. In my case, I concluded that since I was putting in an expensive aftermarket diff, it would **** me off to go to all that effort and expense just to have my axle start leaking and need a rebuild 6 months later. The additional expense to do a full rebuild is about $75 in parts and an extra half day of work. Again, if reusing the same ring, pinion, and housing, you should not have to set it up again.

I'm with you though about not making it sound worse than it is. Definitely doable by a non pro.

BareBonesXL

On the HOWEVER - that's really the point that everyone should consider when considering a project like this. What is expected, and how much effort and money do you want to spend. I had no signs of wear of those parts (I was surprised when the diff just fell out) when I started the project and just wanted the dramatic increase in traction that an LS diff gives over an open diff on a lightweight pickup truck. So my efforts were focused on just getting that extra grip for the other wheel. No need to expend extra for the next 100,000 miles. I can do that later. I had about a month before winter came and potential snow. Which did come, and I needed that extra traction to get out to the freeway. Most of my driving is city streets, I just need LS for snow and taking a corner from a stop sign in the rain.

So there's a whole range of possibilities. A guy with a welder could just pop the cover and weld the gears. The race car/hooner guys do it all the time.

BigEd54

Agreed on all. You gave him your approach and I gave him mine. Both are within the range of valid solutions to his question.

WRT signs of wear, the external signs are limited. By the time you get noise or leaking, the bearings are pretty far gone. My point is simply that once you have the differential open and the carrier out, the added effort and expense to replace the other bearings and seals is minimal. If you have the time and money, might as well get it all done while you are in there. At least inspect the pinion for play or leaking from the seal, and pull your axles out enough to inspect the shafts.

BTW, what did your axle shafts look like? My diff had 110K miles and I was surprised at how worn the shafts were. The shafts on the salvage axle I bought were completely shot, with a 1/8" groove cut in them. I had heard that was a design issue, but it was a real eye opener to see first hand.