Here I go again with another problem
#11
Senior Member
I don't know how far down you went when replacing the MAF - but did you possibly leave one of these pipes off the intake tube when you put it back together? (See red arrows on right).
The following users liked this post:
1968dave (02-20-2018)
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I will check the PCV valve and hose when I get home. Also I cannot hear a vacuum leak and yes I do have oil cap on and dip stick is fine. What is meant by o-ring? I replaced MAF sensor with the whole housing. Shouldn't that be fine?
#13
Senior Member
Oh, probably so. I would sure hope so, anyway.
The following users liked this post:
1968dave (02-20-2018)
#14
Made mine run lean though, not rich.
The following users liked this post:
1968dave (02-20-2018)
#15
Senior Member
How about this, - IF your warm idle is above 750 rpms in park, in most cases you have a un-metered air leak. The gen 10's idle is pretty solid and smooth in these trucks, -usually being dead nuts at 730 rpms. When everything is tight anyway.
Ford has it, - from 700-750 warm idle rpms in park, = Good
But over the years, they have proven to rest right at 730 rpms....or VERY close to it.
An easy way to tell when there's a problem is your warm idle rpms.
The following users liked this post:
1968dave (02-20-2018)
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
If you say so. It's a little 7/16 o-ring MAF posts.
How about this, - IF your warm idle is above 750 rpms in park, in most cases you have a un-metered air leak. The gen 10's idle is pretty solid and smooth in these trucks, -usually being dead nuts at 730 rpms. When everything is tight anyway.
Ford has it, - from 700-750 warm idle rpms in park, = Good
But over the years, they have proven to rest right at 730 rpms....or VERY close to it.
An easy way to tell when there's a problem is your warm idle rpms.
How about this, - IF your warm idle is above 750 rpms in park, in most cases you have a un-metered air leak. The gen 10's idle is pretty solid and smooth in these trucks, -usually being dead nuts at 730 rpms. When everything is tight anyway.
Ford has it, - from 700-750 warm idle rpms in park, = Good
But over the years, they have proven to rest right at 730 rpms....or VERY close to it.
An easy way to tell when there's a problem is your warm idle rpms.
#17
Senior Member
Search for it using a soapy water mixture and watch for bubbles (and listen for a slight whistle). Some guys like looking for vacuum leaks with propane, but that's a little more "livin'-on-the-edge" than I like. Carb cleaner is no bueno for these hoses and wires.
Last edited by white89gt; 02-20-2018 at 04:18 PM.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
For those who are still interested lol, here is an update.
right under here behind the throttle body there is a vacuum elbow that angles upward. it comes from pcv valve ( which I replaced.)
right under here behind the throttle body there is a vacuum elbow that angles upward. it comes from pcv valve ( which I replaced.)
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The elbow seems t have a hole. So I replaced the elbow.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
However, there is am small problem. This piece fell out of the connection where the elbow goes into. It is a small hard plastic tube.
Last edited by 1968dave; 02-20-2018 at 09:36 PM.