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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 10:43 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by oldog97
Is this something that needs to be done by a dealer? Or, is it just a module that can be replaced at home?
I have a feeling if you pulled into a dealer with a 97-03 truck, they would have no idea what to do.
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 02:18 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by oldog97
I have a 2003 FX4 with 5.4 & 88,000 miles, a garage queen. I'm in a company service truck all week, that I also drive home in every day after work, so, my F150 rarely comes out of the garage. I keep a battery tender on it 24/7, & the truck is extremely well taken care of. I just went out to start it up & it just cranks & cranks & will not fire. Also, the "theft" light on the dash keeps flashing, even after I remove the key. It ran just fine the last time I pulled it into the garage,( about 6 months ago). Any thoughts?
Thanks!
I read these from this forum tonight...
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/help-my-theft-light-keeps-blinking-i-cant-start-my-truck-115546/
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/new-battery-truck-wont-start-402494/


Good luck, hope it helps. Let us know what works.

Last edited by W3BY; Mar 5, 2018 at 02:59 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 07:51 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by W3BY

THANK YOU !
I'll try all the easy stuff first,& if that doesn't work, than I'll check for power at the pump & go from there. Thanks again for your help!
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 12:44 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by MagneticLariat
I have a feeling if you pulled into a dealer with a 97-03 truck, they would have no idea what to do.
They don't know what to do with the later years either in most cases.
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 09:10 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by oldog97
I have a 2003 FX4 with 5.4 & 88,000 miles, a garage queen. I'm in a company service truck all week, that I also drive home in every day after work, so, my F150 rarely comes out of the garage. I keep a battery tender on it 24/7, & the truck is extremely well taken care of. I just went out to start it up & it just cranks & cranks & will not fire. Also, the "theft" light on the dash keeps flashing, even after I remove the key. It ran just fine the last time I pulled it into the garage,( about 6 months ago). Any thoughts?
Thanks!
PCM power relay is my guess. Since you use a tender, -those are bad news IMO. Better off to disconnect the battery vs a tender and store the vehicle correctly. Which means driving it or running it in gear on stands 30 miles consistently every 3 months. You can't just start and idle them every now and again, -they have to be run in D gear. Otherwise you'll sludge up the heads and eventually ruin the engine. You have to burn off residual moisture/by-product. Only way to do this correctly is running the engine full cycle (30 miles at once). In gear to preserve and maintain the trans seals.

Anyway, it's an easy fix if this is the case. First check your IAC for 12v's, then a injector for the same. They will be well down on voltage when that relay goes. A tender will fry that relay after awhile...triggering your PATS. Do this in order...before checking the relay. Then feel up the relay, it will most likley be warm or hot = definitely bad.

Last edited by Jbrew; Mar 5, 2018 at 09:22 PM.
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 07:58 PM
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Well, I took a relay out of my work truck & swapped with the ones in my pickup, no luck! I was hopeful that would be the cure, but, I never get lucky!
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 07:32 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by oldog97
Well, I took a relay out of my work truck & swapped with the ones in my pickup, no luck! I was hopeful that would be the cure, but, I never get lucky!
Huh, - from here it's tuff, because you can't differentiate between PCM signal to coils/injectors/crank and cam with a PATS error flashing...not without taking it in anyway. That's due to the PATS canceling signal. If there is a way to do that yourself, I haven't heard of it. Stilll pointing the finger at the tender as root.

I assume you checked the inertia breaker in the cab correct ?

Last edited by Jbrew; Mar 7, 2018 at 07:45 PM.
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Old Mar 8, 2018 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Huh, - from here it's tuff, because you can't differentiate between PCM signal to coils/injectors/crank and cam with a PATS error flashing...not without taking it in anyway. That's due to the PATS canceling signal. If there is a way to do that yourself, I haven't heard of it. Stilll pointing the finger at the tender as root.

I assume you checked the inertia breaker in the cab correct ?
Not yet, I plan on spending some time in the garage with it this weekend. Not much time during the week, as I work outside, long days, & when I get home, I have all I can do just to drag my 64 yr. old butt into the house. I have a list of a few different things I want to check out. Hopefully it will be something easy! (Yea right)! I kinda miss the days of carburetors & points. LOL.
Thanks again for your input, I value everyone's suggestions!
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