i would like to lay off of the premium gas if possible. i use non-ethanol only in my truck and its a daily driver and im in it all day. not driving the whole time, but i am in and out on a regular basis.

just by using non-ethanol gas my mileage has improved by 3 to 4 points.

 

Points ? Well, if you were to just do the head swap, - not sure you should even do that now with your concerns, you won't have to tune. PI heads flow better, but because the air is metered (via the MAF) a re-tune is not needed. Think that's been said..sort of.(jprevat maybe). Yea you won't be able to run regular octane fuel. Maybe a mid range but you still might get detonation.

Yea, probably just keep you engine as is. I have an acquaintance and a friend that both did this. A 4six in a Stang (same engine/shorter intake) and 5four in a f150. The stang ended up w/262 rwhp and the 150 w/260 rwhp. In a truck, the Stang numbers translate to low 250's due to parasitic loss (more of it).

The 4sixes do better porting their none pi heads and just running a different cam profile, but yea, more cash.

If I were you I would just research more, so your fully aware of what your doing and what's going to happen. More importantly, which way will net you the best numbers without spending a bunch in the long run.

 

points = mpg. this truck on a very good day got 14 mpg. once i switched to non-ethanol my mileage started increasing to the point where i am now. with my trailer and bed loaded i get around 16 now, would be more than that if i didnt have a load all the time.

im just needing a little more power, at least i think i do. it will never be raced or anything like that. ive had zero engine problems with this truck. i might just leave it as is. i dont want to start creating problems for myself.

 

Your thinking right, I've tried explaining this in the engines builders thread here, but in never takes. I've done a few write-ups as well. These engines will run good and strong with little modification. Have to keep the MAF dry and get the intake to flow smoothly (have write-up with pictures), need a good PCV valve (motorcraft only) and a good exhaust set up (wrote that up as well) Air in / exhaust and make sure the engine is circulating well. Got all that going in my truck, only tuning that needed done was the trans. I did that with Mike Troyers help ( well known respect tuner form our not too distant past) and hardware tuned the trans. My truck has 337,000 on the same engine and trans (heads have never been removed) and is ready to go to work when needed without a worry. Economy is average, not spectacular, but not bad either. She'll still pull 5000 lbs and under normal acceleration, keeps up with traffic from the light doing so. Couldn't ask for more really. Believe it or not, it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes, never has.

So there's things you can do for a solid running engine that doesn't flinch, little things as I mentioned above. Above all, good maintenance regimen using the right parts. Always make sure you know what those are, -lots of third party crap and knock-offs out there.

 

Using smaller (15") and lighter (Aluminum Alloy) wheels will give you more power. It will also increase your vehicle GVWR and maximum trailer weight.

 

Getting 15" wheels on these trucks is damn near impossible. I wouldn't do this.

 

Moron

 

E150 use 15" wheels

 

They may but for them to work on our trucks the top of the caliper has to be ground down to clear. Probably not the best idea for someone who tows regularly or dd's.

 

According to this site 15" will fit F150. The stock rotor is only 12".
carid.com/replace/15-remanufactured-black-factory-steel-wheel-mpn-stl03024u45.html