Head Gasket question
not going to try this at this time, please see other question at my third post on this one.
edit: i guess strike through doesn't work on this forum...
Last edited by pyro5050; Apr 2, 2013 at 11:47 AM.
i was going through my haynes manual for my 97 F150 4.6L V8 and in replacing the head gasket the steps are talking to remove the cylinder heads before touching the gasket,
i know i have a busted head gasket on my left side, i am about to take apart the intake manifold, to do the replacment, using the haynes manual. i have never done this repair on my truck so i figured i would ask first to see if i can save myself some work. my 95 Chev astro was a pain to do it on so i am trying to head off issues before i get in there...
i know i have a busted head gasket on my left side, i am about to take apart the intake manifold, to do the replacment, using the haynes manual. i have never done this repair on my truck so i figured i would ask first to see if i can save myself some work. my 95 Chev astro was a pain to do it on so i am trying to head off issues before i get in there...
No offense but it seems a little advance for you.
Trending Topics
taking all this into account, i am holding off on the repair as the truck is not that important to me, if i absolutly need to get it done i will probally just bite the bullet and take it to a shop...
i also suspect i have a vac line busted on the passenger side as when i accelerate my blower direction switches from panel to windshield (defrost)
i have been getting air into my coolant system, after having burped out air five times, i still get intermittent overheating and air issues. i replaced the rad cap, did two full flushes and have a clean system. the shop that did a lot of the work on it said it is a head gasket leak, but it passed the pressure tests and the oil and coolant have no signs of mixing... but air still gets in...
i am tempted to see about a new water pump and replacing the heater hoses behind the dash... but honestly i dont want to put a ton of money into a truck i use for dump runs and lumber hauling...
any way to diagnose the problem? i currently have the truck in my garage, fuel pressure relieved, drained the coolant again to see if the new thermostat is buggered (it is not)
i also suspect i have a vac line busted on the passenger side as when i accelerate my blower direction switches from panel to windshield (defrost)
i have been getting air into my coolant system, after having burped out air five times, i still get intermittent overheating and air issues. i replaced the rad cap, did two full flushes and have a clean system. the shop that did a lot of the work on it said it is a head gasket leak, but it passed the pressure tests and the oil and coolant have no signs of mixing... but air still gets in...
i am tempted to see about a new water pump and replacing the heater hoses behind the dash... but honestly i dont want to put a ton of money into a truck i use for dump runs and lumber hauling...
any way to diagnose the problem? i currently have the truck in my garage, fuel pressure relieved, drained the coolant again to see if the new thermostat is buggered (it is not)
To test the water pump, with engine running pinch the upper radiator hose. When you release it it should go back to normal and you will hear a "Swish" of coolant that will indicate it is working properly. The impellers on the water pump disintegrate with age and the pump will turn but not move coolant.
Heater hoses cost about $30 each and should be replaced if they leak.
Even though it is an older truck, I think it is worth doing the preventative maintenance since you use it to make money and who needs a breakdown when you are trying to get some work done. The maintenance is a whole lot cheaper than buying a new vehicle. We used to say in the Army that a breakdown in the field is like an organ quitting in the middle of a piece. Not something you every want to happen so you do whatever you can to avoid it. This is a picture of the quick disconnect fittings on your heater hoses. To remove, push in on the plastic tabs on the inner insert (the top on in the picture) and pull the hose off. When you install the new one just push it on the heater core inlet with everything assembled. I add a little oil to the inlet port the make it slide easier and seal the o rings. Sometime the clamps on the other end of the hose are hard to get at where they are attached to the engine. To make the job easier, I usually just cut off the clamps with a cutting tool and cut off the old heater hose from the engine ports.
http://www.f150online.com/galleries/...3442-87148.jpg
Heater hoses cost about $30 each and should be replaced if they leak.
Even though it is an older truck, I think it is worth doing the preventative maintenance since you use it to make money and who needs a breakdown when you are trying to get some work done. The maintenance is a whole lot cheaper than buying a new vehicle. We used to say in the Army that a breakdown in the field is like an organ quitting in the middle of a piece. Not something you every want to happen so you do whatever you can to avoid it. This is a picture of the quick disconnect fittings on your heater hoses. To remove, push in on the plastic tabs on the inner insert (the top on in the picture) and pull the hose off. When you install the new one just push it on the heater core inlet with everything assembled. I add a little oil to the inlet port the make it slide easier and seal the o rings. Sometime the clamps on the other end of the hose are hard to get at where they are attached to the engine. To make the job easier, I usually just cut off the clamps with a cutting tool and cut off the old heater hose from the engine ports.
http://www.f150online.com/galleries/...3442-87148.jpg
Last edited by Frank_Ford; Apr 2, 2013 at 03:00 PM.

