Streetwiseguitar

Although on the door tag the gear ratio is not listed, I looked up the specs and the possibilities it states are 3.08, 3.33 and 3.55.. I'm thinking that the likelihood is that I have a 3.08 (although I'll be going under the truck to figure out the exact #, shortly). Since I have that size tire, which I really like, I was told to go to 3.55. How does that sound .My use: street/no mudding.

Update: Just went under the truck and we're pretty sure it's 3.55. I think 4.11 would be a huge jump and probably I'd be winding the motor a wee bit at cruising speed.
Thoughts?

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

On a v6 that tire change will be pretty drastic. In my research a 4.10 and 34s will be pretty close to 3.55 and 31.5s but I would consider a 33 as the max.

Streetwiseguitar

Cruising at 55/60 I'm at about 1800/1900+ rpm. I'm concerned that 4.10 would put me well into the 2s. Which seems a wee bit high. What parts are needed to change to 4.10? How would that affect the MPG? How do you think it would affect the cruising rpms (where should they be aprx in 5th at 55/60?)

ps The 34s look so damn GOOD on this truck. I love the height and the overall vibe.

?

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm let's start at the basics. Are you 2 or 4 wheel drive? What was your stock tire size? And can you get the axle code off of the driver door jam or axle tag? I have an auto and with 34s and 3.55s at 60 I am only at 1700 rpms

Streetwiseguitar

Yeah you know I think 1700 sounds about right - I'm with the same exact situation as you. The Axel says "19" and the Orig tire is P255. (2 wheel 5spd manual)

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

Honestly if I were in your shoes I would find a used 3.73 ratio 8.8" through car-part.com

or just live with it. Since you have a manual it wont burn up your trans gear searching

Streetwiseguitar

Apologies for missing this entirely.

What difference would I expect to see with a 3.73 and why would this be considered better? How big of a job is that to change out? I was told that I'd mostly notice the difference in 3-5th if I did make a change. Is that accurate? I find myself really listening to the motor and shifting downwards if I feel the motor is struggling/ too low in rpms.

Streetwiseguitar

Is that really the main concern with those size tires and a V6, torching the trans?

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

If you can bleed brake lines the rest of the install is easy. You have four u-bolts, two brake lines, and four bolts on the drive flange. I dont have the number right in front of me but that change will get you down closer to stock. Go to Randy's ring and pinion website and use their calculators for a spot on answer for rpm changes. You should see an improvement across the board.

If you had an auto I would be worried but the deeper gears will help with wear on your clutch.

OhioLariat

JP's advice is sound, and is also the simplest and least expensive option. I'll be going to 4.10's from 3.55's on mine, but I live at 8900' and drive mountain passes most every day, so I need the extra oomph.