Front suspension clunk
My inspection is up this month, and the truck has been great so far. Today I started hearing a clunk in the front suspension. The same day I let my fiance drive my truck to work, coincidence? Anyways it sounds and feels like an end link, and I am about to order replacements on RockAuto.com. Great timing!
I just called her and asked if she heard anything, and she said no. The only reason she had my truck is that I was getting tires and an inspection on her car. I ordered Moog replacements, they were dirt cheap on rockauto. 14 to my door for a pair. I locked the wheel left and took a quick look. Nothing seemed loose, but I couldn't see the end link with the wheel on, so that's hopefully it.
moog is good and the price is pretty good. you dont need to remove any tires to replace the link but usually the link nuts are frozen on. you either have to beat the **** out of it to get it off, torch it, or cut it off. its a really easy install, dont even need to lift the vehicle.
the torque spec on the link nuts are 16 ft/lbs. just make sure you put them on the right way.
order on stud: washer,bushing(make sure the bushing nipple is facing downward), stud through top of stablizer bar, bushing(nipple facing upward), washer, metal sleeve, washer, bushing(nipple facing downward), stud through lower control arm, bushing(nipple upward) washer and then nut. torque to 16ft/lbs.
the torque spec on the link nuts are 16 ft/lbs. just make sure you put them on the right way.
order on stud: washer,bushing(make sure the bushing nipple is facing downward), stud through top of stablizer bar, bushing(nipple facing upward), washer, metal sleeve, washer, bushing(nipple facing downward), stud through lower control arm, bushing(nipple upward) washer and then nut. torque to 16ft/lbs.
moog is good and the price is pretty good. you dont need to remove any tires to replace the link but usually the link nuts are frozen on. you either have to beat the **** out of it to get it off, torch it, or cut it off. its a really easy install, dont even need to lift the vehicle.
the torque spec on the link nuts are 16 ft/lbs. just make sure you put them on the right way.
order on stud: washer,bushing(make sure the bushing nipple is facing downward), stud through top of stablizer bar, bushing(nipple facing upward), washer, metal sleeve, washer, bushing(nipple facing downward), stud through lower control arm, bushing(nipple upward) washer and then nut. torque to 16ft/lbs.
the torque spec on the link nuts are 16 ft/lbs. just make sure you put them on the right way.
order on stud: washer,bushing(make sure the bushing nipple is facing downward), stud through top of stablizer bar, bushing(nipple facing upward), washer, metal sleeve, washer, bushing(nipple facing downward), stud through lower control arm, bushing(nipple upward) washer and then nut. torque to 16ft/lbs.
Mitchell (if you know what Mitchell is) lists the torque spec at 16 ft/lbs with weight of vehicle on the bar.
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My new end links are in the mail, so I figured I would spray mine with some PB Blaster to hopefully help when I change them out this weekend. Upon spraying the driver side, I noticed that the top of the bolt was either missing or broke off. I guess I know for sure that is what's making noise.
Complete end link from my pass side.

Driver side end link with broken bolt and missing bushing.

Complete end link from my pass side.

Driver side end link with broken bolt and missing bushing.


