Engine overheat
Roger. Where would the PCV valve be??
Would a blown head gasket cause this? Forcing exhaust gasses into the coolant system and whatnot. It's showing the symptoms of a continually occurring air pocket in the system. If there are exhaust gasses flowing into the system, the system will never permanently burp will it?
Checked it. It doesn't smell like burnt oil, just like oil that is being used. Is there a reason that my oil doesn't show symptoms of being mixed with coolant (i.e. frothy texture) if the head gasket was blown?
The only symptom that it might be blown is white smoke coming from the tailpipe on early morning cold starts. This might be condensation, but there is water dripping from it as well.
If you don't mind,let's go back to the basics for a minute and work forward from there.... when I have or hear overheating problem,the first thing that enters my mind is "thermostat"..I sounded like that might be it the way you described it in the beginning.. I know you replaced that,but I've done it as a lot of the guys on hear have put it in backwards...the nose of the thermostat towards the radiator. Now I'm not in any way insinuating you don't know that,but I've put them in backwards myself and had one heck of a time....I changed because of an overheating problem and it just caused another overheating problem...and without knowing it I changed a lot of things I decided the new one must have been bad and changed it again to find out.....and one more thing that's very simple..change the radiator cap...if it's worn and not holding,it just lets the fluid get pushed right out into the overflow and into the ground...I just had that problem with my Ford f150 ..just a couple cheap easy things to think about...best if luck my friend..
If you don't mind,let's go back to the basics for a minute and work forward from there.... when I have or hear overheating problem,the first thing that enters my mind is "thermostat"..I sounded like that might be it the way you described it in the beginning.. I know you replaced that,but I've done it as a lot of the guys on hear have put it in backwards...the nose of the thermostat towards the radiator. Now I'm not in any way insinuating you don't know that,but I've put them in backwards myself and had one heck of a time....I changed because of an overheating problem and it just caused another overheating problem...and without knowing it I changed a lot of things I decided the new one must have been bad and changed it again to find out.....and one more thing that's very simple..change the radiator cap...if it's worn and not holding,it just lets the fluid get pushed right out into the overflow and into the ground...I just had that problem with my Ford f150 ..just a couple cheap easy things to think about...best if luck my friend..
My thoughts exactly. That's the one symptom of a blown head gasket that it exhibits. If it was purely condensation, there should be no water dripping unless it was iced up. Which in Tucson, there is no icing right now. That's why I'm leaning towards the gasket. I also can not get the air pocket out now. The rad hose gets tight when I turn the ac on. But i just cant seem to get the level in the tank to drop like yesterday.
Wow ..you defiantly have a strange one....i guess it could be the head gasket, or a cracked head...maybe the first time it overheated was a thermostat or something simple,but it got hit enough to crack the head or blow the gasket....and now your spinning your wheels trying to figure it all out....I would take the thermostatout and leave it out so you know the water will be flowing..pull the lower radiator and hose from the engine and drain everything..radiator,and block...once everything is completely empty,button everything back up,leaving the thermostat out and find out how many quarts of coolant your truck is supposed to hold and just use water because your gonna drain it again after you see what happens....fill the radiator up,start it up and the coolant level should drop right away because there's no thermostat..just keep adding water until everything is full and where it should be and put the cap on and see if it overheard,or if the fluid don't flow,or what ever I'd going to happen...that should purge all the air from the system and it should run fine with it not even getting hot....maybe just warm after a long oerion if time..since the thermostat isn't in there to hole the fluid in the block until it's 160° it shouldn't overheat...if everything goes good,drain the system and repeat everything and put in a new thermostat ...if it still gets hot,I'm lost and can't help you anymore...I'm sorry... best if luck...jeff
Alright folks, I appreciate all the help so far. I just got the water pump replaced, the radiator, hoses, heater core and a fluid flush and fill, for a grand total of $1,823.00 US(with discount). It seems to have fixed the problem for now. I will drive it once it cools down, and we'll see how it fairs. It's tough to pinpoint the problem because the system was so old and unmaintained before I got to it, that there was buildup of everything but coolant. Which leads me to believe that coolant wasn't circulating at all. It could have been a clogged hose/radiator/radiator outlet or inlet or a multitude of issues, but that's besides the point. The point being that from now on, I will be getting a flush every year(might be over kill, but better safe than sorry).
Last edited by Vincent Martinez; Mar 13, 2014 at 12:34 PM.

