Drivers Window one touch down
Hello All,
For 2 years now I have been using the drivers switch in only, what I call, the first detent switch position.
I will describe what I mean.
First detent, on properly functioning system will lower the wind until released.
Second detent is when the switch is depressed to its maximum travel and the window will lower to the bottom stop.
If I activate the second detent, the window would not travel at all.
I finally searched around and found that there is a way to set the windows travel limits. I tried the following and had some success.
Starting from a fully opened wind I press the window up switch, this only has a single detent, and move the window to its upper travel limit, and hold the switch for ten seconds.
I then depress the switch down to its first detent and move the window to its lower travel limit and hold the switch in the SECOND detent for 10 seconds.
Then i press the window up switch to its upper travel limit.
When I press the switch to the first detent the window will move down until I stop pressing.
I tried going to second detent, and at about half the distance down the window would travel on its own to the lower limit.
Playing around I could get the second detent to work in several positions, but never a complete cycle.
I have questions:
1- Am i properly setting the windows travel limits?
2- Would a defective GEM module cure this,, or cause this window to not work properly?
Than you for your time
Fritz
For 2 years now I have been using the drivers switch in only, what I call, the first detent switch position.
I will describe what I mean.
First detent, on properly functioning system will lower the wind until released.
Second detent is when the switch is depressed to its maximum travel and the window will lower to the bottom stop.
If I activate the second detent, the window would not travel at all.
I finally searched around and found that there is a way to set the windows travel limits. I tried the following and had some success.
Starting from a fully opened wind I press the window up switch, this only has a single detent, and move the window to its upper travel limit, and hold the switch for ten seconds.
I then depress the switch down to its first detent and move the window to its lower travel limit and hold the switch in the SECOND detent for 10 seconds.
Then i press the window up switch to its upper travel limit.
When I press the switch to the first detent the window will move down until I stop pressing.
I tried going to second detent, and at about half the distance down the window would travel on its own to the lower limit.
Playing around I could get the second detent to work in several positions, but never a complete cycle.
I have questions:
1- Am i properly setting the windows travel limits?
2- Would a defective GEM module cure this,, or cause this window to not work properly?
Than you for your time
Fritz
From what I understand, that is the way to properly set the limits.
A defective GEM could *probably* cause this. I doubt that's the issue though, usually GEMs fail due to water intrusion and then pretty much all body functions go whack.
My buddy's 10gen 1-touch-down quit, and it ended up being the switch itself. I was able to take it apart, clean the contacts, and slightly bend them to increase pressure. Not saying this is your issue, but its a good place to start; in my experience these switches aren't that robust; my passenger side one got weak too.
You can most likely test this theory with a jumper wire and a diagram; if you need a diagram let me know and I'll grab one once I get home from school.
If you're gonna replace it, try to get an OEM one or a used part from a wrecker yard. I tried a cheap Amazon one and it didn't even fit the hole properly causing it to stick when installed.
A defective GEM could *probably* cause this. I doubt that's the issue though, usually GEMs fail due to water intrusion and then pretty much all body functions go whack.
My buddy's 10gen 1-touch-down quit, and it ended up being the switch itself. I was able to take it apart, clean the contacts, and slightly bend them to increase pressure. Not saying this is your issue, but its a good place to start; in my experience these switches aren't that robust; my passenger side one got weak too.
You can most likely test this theory with a jumper wire and a diagram; if you need a diagram let me know and I'll grab one once I get home from school.
If you're gonna replace it, try to get an OEM one or a used part from a wrecker yard. I tried a cheap Amazon one and it didn't even fit the hole properly causing it to stick when installed.




