That's an 87-89 Mustang cluster. Also, this thread is nearly 8 years old, so I don't think the OP will answer. Says he hasn't logged in since 2012.

 

ah ok. well **** it then i give it a shot and and see how it turns out. i might try the same layout as that mustang but i will see how much room im working with first. only question is that if i put in a autometer speedometer would that make the cruise control not work anymore?

 

I've done something like that for a Mustang before. If you want to do it, be ready, it's a lot of work. Ford integrates the charging system into the printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster. That is to say, that if that printed circuit isn't there, the alternator won't charge. You also won't have any warning lights unless you make your own. Also, those autometers don't work with factory senders. You have to go to each individual measuring point and put a different sender in. Not to mention the money. Good aftermarket gauges aren't cheap. In fact, not many people use them anymore. Everything is LCD (tablet style) display or a Racepack. The are cheaper and easier to integrate.

Kurt

 

Also 99 and up the cluster is tied in to pats.

 

thanks for the heads up man. i was wondering about that circuit crap in the back. im wondering if there is a way to trick the computer into thinking a certain section of circuit is there. for warning lights im not too worried about because its not a street truck anymore and im going to be running a volt, oil pressure, water temp, trans temp, diff temp, oil temp, fuel pressure, and of course rpm and speedo. i might try to keep turn signals maybe

 

Yes, you can trick the system. Most of the circuit just involves turning certain lights on for corresponding malfunctions. The charging circuit is the most difficult. If you look at the printed circuit, you'll see that it splits right before the charge light bulb. One circuit, goes to the lightbulb, and one circuit goes to a resistor built into the printed circuit. Now, I know this sounds crazy, but this is how it works. When you turn the key on, the ignition switch sends power through that light bulb. The light bulb will turn on if battery voltage is higher than alternator output. But the power has to be there from the ignition switch, or the alternator doesn't turn on. Now, if the lightbulb burns out, the system is designed to reroute power through that resistor to keep the alternator running. You can surgically remove that resistor from the printed circuit, and solder it into the corresponding wires on the harness to keep the charging system working. There might be other challenges I am not aware of also. I have done this on an older Mustang that did not have a digital odometer. At some point there was some communication between the mileage stored in the instrument cluster, and the mileage stored in the ECU. I don't know if that applies to 97'-03' F150s, but I know it was that way on more recent F150s.

Kurt