Charging Problem
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 6,246
Likes: 797
From: Indiana
You can fix an alt yourself if you're familiar with electronics and depending on what's wrong
I am very familiar with them and still decided it wasn't worth the headache and just bought a new one.
It all depends on how much your time is worth vs your money. At the time for me it made more sense to just get a new one, truck was only down for 15mins and the peace of mind that it's new (and shouldn't have anymore issues)
I am very familiar with them and still decided it wasn't worth the headache and just bought a new one.
It all depends on how much your time is worth vs your money. At the time for me it made more sense to just get a new one, truck was only down for 15mins and the peace of mind that it's new (and shouldn't have anymore issues)
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 386
Likes: 31
Ok guys, one more piece of information: I ran back through all the tests twoskinsoneman posted in post #2. When I checked the resistance between the "F" terminal and the "A" screw on the regulator, I get 2.9 ohms. The spec says if the resistance is under 5 ohms, replace the alternator. While I believe I may have found the problem, what is this test telling me? I guess my real question is do I really have to replace the alternator, or can the components in the alternator be replaced (again)? My feeling is that unless the field winding is shorting to the case or there has been some other fault, I should be able to replace the guts and have a good working alternator? What do you say? I really need to get this truck running! Thanks again.
Good luck. Let us know what you find and do.
What exactly is a "hung brush" anyway?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 34
Likes: 2
I want thank everyone for the advice and info. Twoskins, I swapped out the regulator for a known good one, and the resistance between the A and F posts did not change. I came to the realization that just swapping out the small internal parts was not going to make this alternator work. I went to the local FLAPS, and bought a new one (not a reman). Before I left the store, I metered it out between the two posts, and got 8.9 ohms. This makes sense why the #11 fuse kept blowing, since lower resistance allows more current flow. I did look at the slip rings on the old alternator, and there was no indication of any buildup or foreign material. The brushes looked great. Since this truck is my daily driver, I needed it up and running asap. The new alternator is working fine, and I expect it to continue that way (crossed fingers). Tomorrow will be the real test. Stuck brush? I have seen brushes get stuck in their guides, and not make good contact with the slip ring. I would guess if that happened, the A-F test would show an open? Thanks again for all the help!