Changing Spark Plugs
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Newton, New Jersey
Changing Spark Plugs
I have a 2000 F150 5.4L V8 and I want to do a tune up on the car. To get to the Spark Plugs there is these wires over top of them with a clip on them however I'm not sure how the clips come off. I'm having a hard time changing these anyone have some advice?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 171
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, GA
I believe that 5.4L has COPs which is Coils over the plugs... Which essentially meants your going to have to un screw them and pull them off the spark plugs.
Is this the first tun up its had? If you have done this I think your just not pulling hard enough... Twist and Pull... Twist and Pull... and make sure you have some Diode electric grease to put in there when you stick your new plugs on. And ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME.... take the wire of... take spark plug out... put new one in.... put COP back on and then go to the next one. If its been a looooooooong time and they have never been done... you might want to let a mechanic bust his knuckles on it and assume liability... If you deside to do it i would get a broke neck socket for it and some extentions... Don't over tighten them.. and if they are not comming out that easy do two things: 1-stop what your doing immediately and have a mechanic do it...or 2-get some PB Blaster and spray it on the socket about every two hours and keep trying to work it.... But slowly..... this could literally take you all day
And last...... just remember your assuming all responsibility for it, and I can promise you if you screw something up that a mechanic has to fix he is going to charge you more... I know i would....
Is this the first tun up its had? If you have done this I think your just not pulling hard enough... Twist and Pull... Twist and Pull... and make sure you have some Diode electric grease to put in there when you stick your new plugs on. And ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME.... take the wire of... take spark plug out... put new one in.... put COP back on and then go to the next one. If its been a looooooooong time and they have never been done... you might want to let a mechanic bust his knuckles on it and assume liability... If you deside to do it i would get a broke neck socket for it and some extentions... Don't over tighten them.. and if they are not comming out that easy do two things: 1-stop what your doing immediately and have a mechanic do it...or 2-get some PB Blaster and spray it on the socket about every two hours and keep trying to work it.... But slowly..... this could literally take you all day
And last...... just remember your assuming all responsibility for it, and I can promise you if you screw something up that a mechanic has to fix he is going to charge you more... I know i would....
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 171
Likes: 1
From: Columbus, GA
I found this on another page...... The guy put some energy in it.. If it helps you I'm glad
""You have to be very carefull not to damage the threads on the aluminum head or you will likely expereince the dreaded spark plug popping out of head problem. I couldn't find the original posts but had made a procedure from two or three posts that provided useful information.
M Feeney
How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs
Changing these plugs is very difficult because: (i) they're hard to reach, (ii) done wrong and you will strip the fragile aluminum heads, and (iii) you need a blow gun to clean out the spark plug holes in the heads so no dirt falls into your engine.
I made this post after researching the web (thx Dave West), speaking with mechanics, and reading the Ford website.
To understand just how bad the head problem is, please read:
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2 ... ineup.html
If you're not up for this, I recommend going to your dealership. Labor in CA to do this job is between $280 and $450 (depending on the place). And, the plugs should cost you around $55. The job should take anyone between 2 to 3 hours. I recommend paying more if you are convinced the dealer / mechanic has done this job before many times.
I did this job once, but the cost of the tools and supplies ($100) as well as the time it took me, were not worth it. Next time, I’ll just pay a good dealership.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Start with a cold engine. This is critical so that you don't strip or otherwise damage the aluminum heads.
2. Pop the hood, position a foot stool or bench, and setup some blankets or pads around the engine area so you can lay over the radiator to work deep in the engine compartment.
3. Remove the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on.
4. Remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body.
5. Remove the metal brace between the engine and the power steering reservoir. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on.
NOTE: Now you should be able to see the Coil On Plugs (COPs). Each plug has its own mini coil. ALSO, you don't have to remove the fuel rails to remove the COP assemblies; they will come out past the fuel rail.
6. Remove the COPs using a 7mm or 9/32" socket, extension and ratchet. (If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs.)
7. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector.
8. Twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.
9. IMPORTANT: Take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes and surrounding area. Don't be surprised if there is dirt, rust and junk in them. ***WARNING*** You must do this step before removing the plugs, otherwise when you take out the plugs, all that junk will fall inside the combustion chamber of your engine (very bad). Use a flash light (and mirror for the back ones) to make sure all of the dirt, gunk, etc. is gone before moving on.
10. TIP: Spray just a little bit of Penetrating Oil inside the hole around the plug. Let this soak in for 5 minutes on each plug. This will help you avoid damaging the aluminum head. Again, blow out the hole to remove any remnant penetrating oil or gunk.
11. Remove the plugs. Use a combination of wobble extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchet to get at them. Each plug hole is about 7" deep. Ford recommends a super-long spark plug socket instead of the normally shorter ones plus an extension. This avoids the ratchet extension from popping out of the shorter socket and leaving it stuck on the plug inside inside the hole.
NOTE: On the harder ones, use the special super-long socket (pick it up at Kragen or Sears), then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.
12. Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support or in your owner's manual....usually .052-.056".
13. TIP: Apply a small amount of medium-strength anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. **ASK YOUR MECHANIC ABOUT THIS IF YOU'RE NOT SURE**
14. Use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert to first set the plug into the super-long socket, then lower into the hole, and carefully start the plugs in their holes.
15. IMPORTANT: You MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs. The plugs are to be tightened to 12 LB-ft (which is just hand tight with a short ratchet). ***WARNING*** Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. Too tight and you'll strip the threads and/or your plugs will shoot out while you're driving.
16. Clean the rubber boot on each COP, and apply a little dielectric grease to the end of each plug boot to help seal the boot and the plug.
17. Repeat these steps on all plugs, then put everything back together in reverse order.
________________________________________
I wrote this out for someone else but I figured I'd post it here too. The 4.6L with plug wires is a bit different but similar.
If anyone has any comments or other ideas on how to do the job post them here and maybe we can combine them all and make one good tech article.
It seems that most people on here recommend Motorcraft spark plugs. That is all I will use too. Some people on here have had good luck with other brands and some people have had bad luck. Gimmick type spark plugs seem to usually be a waste of money. Something to remember is that a spark can only jump one gap at a time so having 2, 3, or 4 electrodes doesnt make much sense to me.
I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4s now and once you've done a set they really arent as bad as they look.
Contrary to what some people will tell you, you dont have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil On Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail.
I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the rad support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy
It makes the job way less painful.
Start by removing the cover over the throttle body ...the black plastic cover that says 5.4 on it. There are 3 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing.
You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the IAT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body.
Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on.
Now you should be able to see the COPs
To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nutdriver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above.
If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.
After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Dont be surprised if there is rust and junk in them.
Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you
On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet.
The plugs are way down in the holes which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall etc.
Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the rad support....usually .052-.056".
Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug.
You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Crossthreaded plug threads are no fun
The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet.
Don't overtighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is.
After that just put everything back together in reverse order.
Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.
I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it it takes a few hours. """"
""You have to be very carefull not to damage the threads on the aluminum head or you will likely expereince the dreaded spark plug popping out of head problem. I couldn't find the original posts but had made a procedure from two or three posts that provided useful information.
M Feeney
How to replace your 4.6L & 5.4L spark plugs
Changing these plugs is very difficult because: (i) they're hard to reach, (ii) done wrong and you will strip the fragile aluminum heads, and (iii) you need a blow gun to clean out the spark plug holes in the heads so no dirt falls into your engine.
I made this post after researching the web (thx Dave West), speaking with mechanics, and reading the Ford website.
To understand just how bad the head problem is, please read:
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2 ... ineup.html
If you're not up for this, I recommend going to your dealership. Labor in CA to do this job is between $280 and $450 (depending on the place). And, the plugs should cost you around $55. The job should take anyone between 2 to 3 hours. I recommend paying more if you are convinced the dealer / mechanic has done this job before many times.
I did this job once, but the cost of the tools and supplies ($100) as well as the time it took me, were not worth it. Next time, I’ll just pay a good dealership.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Start with a cold engine. This is critical so that you don't strip or otherwise damage the aluminum heads.
2. Pop the hood, position a foot stool or bench, and setup some blankets or pads around the engine area so you can lay over the radiator to work deep in the engine compartment.
3. Remove the cover over the throttle body (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm head bolts that hold it on.
4. Remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body.
5. Remove the metal brace between the engine and the power steering reservoir. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on.
NOTE: Now you should be able to see the Coil On Plugs (COPs). Each plug has its own mini coil. ALSO, you don't have to remove the fuel rails to remove the COP assemblies; they will come out past the fuel rail.
6. Remove the COPs using a 7mm or 9/32" socket, extension and ratchet. (If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs.)
7. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector.
8. Twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.
9. IMPORTANT: Take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes and surrounding area. Don't be surprised if there is dirt, rust and junk in them. ***WARNING*** You must do this step before removing the plugs, otherwise when you take out the plugs, all that junk will fall inside the combustion chamber of your engine (very bad). Use a flash light (and mirror for the back ones) to make sure all of the dirt, gunk, etc. is gone before moving on.
10. TIP: Spray just a little bit of Penetrating Oil inside the hole around the plug. Let this soak in for 5 minutes on each plug. This will help you avoid damaging the aluminum head. Again, blow out the hole to remove any remnant penetrating oil or gunk.
11. Remove the plugs. Use a combination of wobble extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchet to get at them. Each plug hole is about 7" deep. Ford recommends a super-long spark plug socket instead of the normally shorter ones plus an extension. This avoids the ratchet extension from popping out of the shorter socket and leaving it stuck on the plug inside inside the hole.
NOTE: On the harder ones, use the special super-long socket (pick it up at Kragen or Sears), then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.
12. Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the radiator support or in your owner's manual....usually .052-.056".
13. TIP: Apply a small amount of medium-strength anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. **ASK YOUR MECHANIC ABOUT THIS IF YOU'RE NOT SURE**
14. Use a spark plug socket with a rubber insert to first set the plug into the super-long socket, then lower into the hole, and carefully start the plugs in their holes.
15. IMPORTANT: You MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the plugs. The plugs are to be tightened to 12 LB-ft (which is just hand tight with a short ratchet). ***WARNING*** Don't over tighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. Too tight and you'll strip the threads and/or your plugs will shoot out while you're driving.
16. Clean the rubber boot on each COP, and apply a little dielectric grease to the end of each plug boot to help seal the boot and the plug.
17. Repeat these steps on all plugs, then put everything back together in reverse order.
________________________________________
I wrote this out for someone else but I figured I'd post it here too. The 4.6L with plug wires is a bit different but similar.
If anyone has any comments or other ideas on how to do the job post them here and maybe we can combine them all and make one good tech article.
It seems that most people on here recommend Motorcraft spark plugs. That is all I will use too. Some people on here have had good luck with other brands and some people have had bad luck. Gimmick type spark plugs seem to usually be a waste of money. Something to remember is that a spark can only jump one gap at a time so having 2, 3, or 4 electrodes doesnt make much sense to me.
I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4s now and once you've done a set they really arent as bad as they look.
Contrary to what some people will tell you, you dont have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil On Plug (COP) assemblies will come out past the fuel rail.
I take an old piece of seat foam and put it on top of the rad support to the engine to allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy
It makes the job way less painful.
Start by removing the cover over the throttle body ...the black plastic cover that says 5.4 on it. There are 3 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from the throttle body to the air filter housing.
You loosen the hose clamps at either end of it, disconnect the connector on the IAT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body.
Next remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on.
Now you should be able to see the COPs
To remove the COPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nutdriver or socket, extension and ratchet or all of the above.
If you turn the fuel injectors to the side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come out.
After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Dont be surprised if there is rust and junk in them.
Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you
On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet.
The plugs are way down in the holes which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall etc.
Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the rad support....usually .052-.056".
Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug.
You can use a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take a look and see why not. Crossthreaded plug threads are no fun
The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight with a short ratchet.
Don't overtighten them! The threads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is.
After that just put everything back together in reverse order.
Apply some dielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them.
I've done enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it it takes a few hours. """"
