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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

Brake problem

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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 08:08 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Jefk
did you bleed your brakes?
He replaced the lines so I assume they were bled then.

Could bleed the out of em again.

Otherwise as stated previously I would consider the rubber lines may be ballooning.

Im going to Stainless lines when I change mine personally.
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #12  
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Metal lines and front hoses are all new as about a year ago. Not sure if they replaced all fluid but I would imagine so. Hoses still look good. An recently I replaced the wheel hubs and everything looked good. The reason I mentioned the adjustment but under the master cylinder is because I saw a lot online about people having the same problem as me with soft pedals and they adjusted that night and there brakes were firm an like new. The shakeness I have no idea cause everything checks good
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 08:21 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Luckyse7ens
He replaced the lines so I assume they were bled then.

Could bleed the out of em again.

Otherwise as stated previously I would consider the rubber lines may be ballooning.

Im going to Stainless lines when I change mine personally.
The cheap lines are good for 2-3 years depending upon how often your on the skidders.

IMO if every test has been done, - the OP would have found the issue. Since my advice was ignored, I really doubt this is the case.
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 08:30 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
The cheap lines are good for 2-3 years depending upon how often your on the skidders. IMO if every test has been done, - the OP would have found the issue. Since my advice was ignored, I really doubt this is the case.
Sorry j brew but what is the check valve?
And is there any upgraded lines that replace the rubber hoses?
Like braided lines?
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 08:49 PM
  #15  
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No problem, -


Russell Braided BL kits, - your 97 has 3 lines. Sometimes you can find them pre-made, or they will make them right up for you. Russell offers that service since there's so many types of lift kits out there.



First, go through all tests. Brake Booster rod doesn't need adjusting yet. Start with the easy and work your way through. These procedures are in every manual.
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 09:07 PM
  #16  
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Oh right, - the check valve is on the booster with that model and gives you your air assist (help) when braking. Connects the brake booster to the throttle body elbow (plenum) port. On the 97, it's the bottom port.

Just give the check valve a yank at the booster, - pulls right out ...easily checked.

BTW,- if you hear air expel from the booster after you pull it out, that's usually a good sign.
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 10:31 AM
  #17  
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Are you saying pull the hose of the valve on the booster or pulling the whole hose/ valve from the booster?
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 02:33 PM
  #18  
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Just grab the valve, pull it out. That's all you need to do. Use WD40 to assist and it will come out easier.

You can remove that pinch clamp first, - slide it down the hose, then remove the hose first if you like.

Last edited by Jbrew; Jul 10, 2014 at 02:35 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 02:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
The cheap lines are good for 2-3 years depending upon how often your on the skidders.

IMO if every test has been done, - the OP would have found the issue. Since my advice was ignored, I really doubt this is the case.
I use duct tape, it never fails lol jk
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Old Jul 10, 2014 | 03:01 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Jefk
I use duct tape, it never fails lol jk
The only problem there, -if they balloon with duct tape around them, they remain that way......until..
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