I wouldn't pinch a brake hose. They are to easily compromised. Depending on line integrity little pieces may break free plugging the new caliper. It's how these lines break down, from the inside. Set it up for a quick swap, install the new caliper first w/closed bleeder. Make sure bleeder is at the top. It's a little messy, - it's done this way with the caliper stable so you can torque the banjo bolt down properly compressing the copper washers correctly. Swap from one to other quickly. Before removing your existing caliper, just crack the banjo bolt loose first. Not so that it leaks (although it may), just loose enough so the transfer goes smoothly.

Are you flushing the system or just swapping the calipers ? Just calipers right. Bleed the front after they gravity fill. They fill quickly so as soon as you open the master, get right back down and ready yourself to close the bleeder. Once accomplished, bleed both front calipers and confirm hard peddle. Soft peddle means air in the system. If you do as I instruct, you'll most likely just have to purge the front. But don't be surprised if you have to all 4 wheels. It's not a big deal anyway IF you've made or have the bottle right as explained. I wouldn't give the other guys explanation any merit as that will confuse, not to mention ridicules for systems such as these. Once you do this, you'll realize actually how easy it is.

 

If they are in that condition, they should be getting replaced. And honestly, these trucks have some of the ****tiest brake hoses on the planet, so it'd be a good idea to anyway.

 

Right, -

Anyway, interior wall is fragile, -new brake lines do react to pinching well either. They won't loose pieces or crack, pinching WILL damage the interior wall. They are packaged a little coiled up. That said, even coiled up and after unpackaging your suppose to hang the new lines for a period of time so that they straighten on their own. That should tell you right there why they don't suggest pinching a brake line. Pinching an old line and because of the way they break down, yea even worse lol.

(Btw and just so you know, the last part of my last reply wasn't directed towards you lol. I realized after posting that, that you might think so. But it wasn't.)

 

LOL... I knew where you were aiming.

 

Okay good. That's all I need, a whitegt after me. I might as well just pull over now lol.

 

It's a good idea. As for Jbrew saying that you can replace the front calipers and not have air in the system is impossible as the system will already have air in it from the new calipers. I would be cautious as to the way he tells you to do it. If you do it the way I explained, you can see the fluid.

Why anyone would just in the front drivers seat and just guess as to the quality of the work they did is puzzling to me . . .not really . . .it's just plain laziness.

Simple as that. . . . Some people get "Bitch Hurt" when others do not see things their way, always keep an open mind and remember that there is more than one way to do things.

I would bleed all of the brakes, takes a whole 5 minutes, tops.

 

It's not B-hurt, someones just totally lost. Not seeing what fluid ? You keep saying the same thing without explaining yourself.

________________

Regardless and besides all the rediculess stuff that's been said, one of the biggest problems is bleeding the lines isolating them one at a time. With ABS you can screw up that whole process. Anyone who has done this a few times will know what I mean.

When bleeding with over the counter vac tools like say Mitey Vac or others won't always help you much w/ABS bleeding because of proportion valve sensitivity. If you kick the valve (easy to do) it won't bleed properly. They have the high dollar systems at dealerships to accommodate for this sensitivity through a fluid exchange process. For the doityourselfer, the method that puts the least amount of pressure on the valve that gives you a 100% bleed every time isn't the pump up or vac procedure, - been there done that long ago. The easy sure way is slow pressure strokes to the peddle. I gave the numbers earlier for a full system flush. You'll see the fluid go from dark to clear in front of your eyes. Purges old, feeds in the new and bleeds all in one shoot. You just can't be heavy on the peddle whatsoever while bleeding, has to be slow ( not that slow, just not to fast) to keep the ABS from closing or partially closing the line your working on.. Do it all in one shot, fluid exchange and bleed. You see EVERYTHING. You can do this yourself, or with a helper either way, same deal. Never hold brake pressure during the process, - like in the old days, before ABS systems.

How do you know if the ABS kicks in ? The peddle will firm up with bleeder open. How do you know if you have air in the lines, peddle will not firm up. Fire the truck up and that will reveal itself even more lol.

 

Man, I am really confused now lol. Just kidding. A lot of info. here.This is going to sound weird but my 98xl 4.2 only has abs in the rear not the front.

 

The rear abs is on the rear end axle, not on the tires.

 

Same here.

If I were you at the point, I would just You Tube it. Thread is scrap now lol.