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1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

bearings??

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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 04:19 PM
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I have a 2002 lariat 4wd with 150k and just got the parts in for the rear shocks, rotors, and pads. I've never done a rear brake job on a 4wd before and was told I should just reuse the old bearings. But I was under the impression the guy behind the counter was in a hurry and just wanted me out of there versus going to the back and getting me all the necessary parts to replace the bearings. After doing some research , I haven't found very much how-to for the rear breaks on a 4wd f150..I know you guys know everything there is to know about diy projects for the f150. Thanks!
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 05:28 PM
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Are the rear bearings making a noise? If not, you do not have to mess with the bearings to change the brakes.The axles have to be removed to change the rear bearings.
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 06:01 PM
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I agree with JR You only need to replace them if they are making noise and there is no maintenance required on the bearings. However, you should change the fluid in the differential and this fluid lubricates those same bearings. Ford recommends this doing this every 30,000 or 24 months. Make sure you refill with the proper lubricant that includes the friction modifier as recommended by Ford.

This may be telling you information that you already know so forgive me if you have already considered what I am about to say. I would consider changing out the wheel cylinders when doing the brakes because they are inexpensive, you will clean out the old brake fluid when doing it, and you might avoid problems in the future. You seem like a guy that wants to keep his truck in great shape and doing this will avoid potential leaks at the cylinders in the near future.

Last edited by Frank_Ford; Mar 6, 2013 at 06:09 PM.
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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Thanks for the info ! No noise coming from the bearings , just thought I'd have to change out the bearings. I'm gonna tackle it this weekend , just got my rear shocks in from amazon. I'll look into changing the fluids as well. I'll keep you guys posted!
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 10:05 PM
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Sorry frank, just seeing the second part of ur msg. Actually, I've never thought about the wheel cylinders.. I've only heard of the name and don't have the slightest idea of what they are,let alone how to replace them. But it sounds like a reasonably easy job so I'll give it a shot. And you are right about STARTING to keep my truck in good shape.. I've finally been bitten by the bug after I've finally made time for ole reliable after years of neglect. I just got back from my final combat deployment and have a little change in my pocket to repair all of the maintenance issues with the truck. So far over the past 2 weeks ive replaced the belt with a goodyear gatorback, front shocks with rancho rs5000, front rotors and pads with prostop, and tightened the throttle cable with zip ties. And a full detail inside and out.It also helps to have another vehicle to drive around as a parts runner(2010 challenger R/T classic). I still want to do all the fluids myself maybe next weekend..as of right now i am a sponge and will take in as much info about maintenance and mods as much as i canSo nothing but appreciation sent yalls way for the helpful info!
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:07 AM
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Forget what I said about the wheel cylinders. You have disk brakes (not drums) and you don't need cylinders. The cylinders do the same job as the calipers except for the drum brake shoes. As long as you can open the bleed valve on the calipers, you can collapse the caliper piston, install your new pads, and bleed the brakes. The calipers are more expensive than the cylinders and I would not change them if they are working good now and you can open the bleed valve. It is common for the bleed valve to rust and break when you try to open them up. The brake fluid also absorbs water and rusts your brake system so you should flush out the system every couple of years and replace the fluid.

You can collapse the caliper existing with a special brake tool or, the way I always do it, open the bleed valve and collapse the piston by pressing on it by hand with the old brake shoe. After I get everything back together I bleed the brakes and fill the system up with clean fluid. The new DOT 4 fluid has rust inhibitors in it that is supposed to make it last longer and not rust up your brake system. It cost a little more than DOT 3 but I have been using it and so far, it has given me good results.
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