97-2003 5.4 Engine

So Ive been reading the different forums and threads, but I just would like a consolidated list of things I need to know when doing a head gasket replacement.

Here is what I have, and please feel free to add other things. Thanks!

Mandatory:
- drain radiator
- must have torque wrench
- must have new head bolts, as they are TTY (torque to Yield)
- for in engine replacements, the back bolts need to be placed in the head and held up to place because of firewall clearances
- torque in spiral order
- don't scrape the heads. Chemical clean only

Recommended:
- remove the wheel well liners for easier access
- take your time, and pictures

Preference:
- remove the cab for easier access
- do an engine swap to save time
- don't remove the cab and do it in the engine bay if you have time/patience
- take wheels off and lower front end on stands

Nice To Know:
- It can be done by a mechanically inclined person, just takes time
- keep a clean table, and make sure to keep everything covered while you work or take a break.

Unknown:
- what chemicals can I use, or can't I use to clean the heads?
- If I have the heads machined, even a little bit, what else do I need to do? Is there a minimum that can be machined without resetting cams or anything else?
- I bought the gasket set, and bolts, is there anything else I should do while I have it apart? 120K miles currently. Is there anything else I need to buy that I haven't seen that is needed? RTV? some other part?
- Do I have to drain the oil?
- Some people mentioned something(s) about (tapping|porting|some other verbs) the spark plugs or spark plug ports. Can some one elaborate, please?

General process:
- drain radiator
- remove peripherals
- remove top down
- lock timing
- remove heads
- clean (and machine if necessary)
- rebuild in reverse order, (torque in proper order)
- smile, I saved lots of money, and had fun with friends while doing it!

 

Look for a good used engine with a known history. You can buy these from a salvage yard for between $500 and $1000. Do a complete engine swap. Tearing down and repairing an engine is a job best left to folks with a lot tools and know how. You also don't know the condition of the valves and you may have a cracked head. Thus, more money. You didn't say anything about valve timing which is a big deal if it is not done properly. All considered, a small mistake will cost you a lot of money. Much more that the value of a 97 truck that is most like worth only about $2000.

 

You will need an upper engine gasket kit as you will be replacing the intake gaskets, and probably a few others. It will come with head gaskets. I would use Fel-pro. Buy a new set of spark plugs and yes you will want to change your oil. This is the perfect time to do spark plug thread repairs - it may be a little costly but well worth the insurance if you plan on keeping the truck as it will be 100 times harder to do with the heads installed.

I would consider a new timing chain and tensioner set as you'll have the timing cover off. Your exhaust manifolds are going to be a real peach to remove too as I'm sure all the studs/bolts are rusted like a sum-b*tch. This is going to be why you need the wheel wheel liners removed as you can access them through that area.

Get a manual - at a minimum get the torque specs and sequence on the heads and make sure you understand it. It will not be quite as easy as you think and will involve stepping the torque up systematically in a specific pattern. Make sure you install the HG's in the proper direction too - usually labeled "front" which points toward the front.

I used a razor blade to scrape the heads - yeah, it's easy to score the heads of you saw back and forth. Just don't be retarded with it. Use very flat scraping and pull the blade back, don't push it forward like you were shoveling snow as you can gouge the head. I wouldn't trust chemicals like brake cleaner to get the surface totally flat. You can go to town with a razor blade on the block side though - it's iron and you won't mess that up.

Clean the cylinders before you reassemble - they will be full of coolant and junk. Wipe them down with oil/wd40 if the truck will be sitting any length of time without the heads as you don't want surface rust on the cylinder.

Oh, you'll need to understand how to set the cam timing again too. It is not very easy to figure out without a manual. Use anti-sieze on bolts that go into aluminum too. You'll be happy you did if you ever need to remove them. You may also need some dabs of black silicone (or the nice coolant jacket permatex) when doing the lower intake or thermostat stuff - not too sure on the mod motor. OH yeah, that's a good time to put in a new thermostat too.

One thing that helps me is to use a pizza box - punch holes in it with a screw driver and plug your bolts into it. Write down where it went. You can draw a crude picture of the valve cover and plug em all into the right spots. I like it better than using baggies as some bolts will have studs for wire looms to attach to and stuff. It's nice to know where those went - not that it's the end of the world.

P.S. Use a good torque wrench on the heads. Not some Harbor Freight junk. Beg, borrow or steal one. You need your best effort on the headgaskets and make sure those mating surfaces are squeaky clean with brake cleaner. Don't even leave lent from the towel behind.