Ball joints
It is not a bad job with the right tools. I went on ebay bought the entire kit with upper and lower ball joints and hardware for $120 then went to an auto parts store and rented a ball joint press. If nothing is seized then it will take about and 1.5 hrs.. soak every bolt with BP blaster for a day or two before hand.
Replacing the upper ball joints isn't all that bad. You'll have to replace the entire control arm - if you go with a quality control arm they'll run you about $80 a piece. That job takes about 1 hour to complete each side. Tools I used for this job were the following:
7/8" wrench
3/8" drive socket wrench
13/16" socket
PB Blaster
13/16" deep socket
Small 2 jaw puller (can also use pickle fork or whack the steering knuckle with a hammer to seperate ball joint from steering knuckle. I recommend the puller - keep the nut on to avoid a violent seperation)
Pliers - to remove the cotter pin and install the new one
I have a '97 4x4 with 105,000 miles on it. The upper contol arms were original and the ball joint to steering knuckle connection, or nut rather, was seized on. I had to apply a liberal amount of PB Blaster in combination with some heat from a propane torch to get the nut off.
I also replaced the lower ball joints. The Haynes manual says that you have to replace the entire lower control arm but you really don't have to. I'd rent the ball joint service kit from Advanced or something to do that. This job requires you to remove the entire steering knuckle from the control arms. Take note of all of the sockets you'll need for this job - I got into it and realized that I needed a 1 inch, 1-1/16 inch, and a couple other sizable sockets to complete the job. In all each side took me about 5 hours (it was the first time I've completed such a job). Just make sure that you press the balljoint in all the way.
I hope that all of this helps. Don't go cheap on these parts. Quality ball joints from NAPA have a lifetime warranty with them. Good luck! I hope this helps.
7/8" wrench
3/8" drive socket wrench
13/16" socket
PB Blaster
13/16" deep socket
Small 2 jaw puller (can also use pickle fork or whack the steering knuckle with a hammer to seperate ball joint from steering knuckle. I recommend the puller - keep the nut on to avoid a violent seperation)
Pliers - to remove the cotter pin and install the new one
I have a '97 4x4 with 105,000 miles on it. The upper contol arms were original and the ball joint to steering knuckle connection, or nut rather, was seized on. I had to apply a liberal amount of PB Blaster in combination with some heat from a propane torch to get the nut off.
I also replaced the lower ball joints. The Haynes manual says that you have to replace the entire lower control arm but you really don't have to. I'd rent the ball joint service kit from Advanced or something to do that. This job requires you to remove the entire steering knuckle from the control arms. Take note of all of the sockets you'll need for this job - I got into it and realized that I needed a 1 inch, 1-1/16 inch, and a couple other sizable sockets to complete the job. In all each side took me about 5 hours (it was the first time I've completed such a job). Just make sure that you press the balljoint in all the way.
I hope that all of this helps. Don't go cheap on these parts. Quality ball joints from NAPA have a lifetime warranty with them. Good luck! I hope this helps.
Unless you do some hardcore wheeling then it should not matter that much on what parts you get. As long as they are have grease fittings and you grease them regularly then you should be fine. no sense in spending out the ***** for a brand name.
If it weren't a steering component I would agree with you but, I have a paranoia about a ball joint or a tie-rod breaking. I'd recommend doing what dangeloppka said and go with the quality name brand part. Usually I'm all about buying cheap but somethings I think are worth the extra $$$ especially when you think about what the parts do and how often they actually go bad.
My way of thinking about it is by the time something does break the truck will be in the hands of someone else. But I do agree to some extent brand name parts are better but as a college sometimes you have to cut corners. so screw auto mechanics...and do it yourself.

