racin4ds

iTrader: (1)

The factory Ford TracLoc system works pretty damn good when you rebuild it and use good/extra friction discs. Best thing is they are cheap and can be found in any 8.8" rear!

Carcrazygts2

I did the hole extra clutch/shim in the 9.75 ls. While it worked it was still easily to bind up when you need it the most. I have since switched to a True trac in the rear, along with a Aussie upfront.

lifted97

So you're locked up front and rear? How is it working for you?

Carcrazygts2

Works great!. The only thing I can recommend is to find a right side axle and housing from a A4WD Expedition to eliminate the 2 piece passenger front axle shaft. I snapped one with the front locked.

lifted97

How is it in the street for the front when its not in 4wd? Like does it bind up in the front when turning in 2wd?

A7X

Why not pull a 9.75 out of a 02-03 FX4? Limited slip with 3.73... Then build the stronger of the two Axles offered in these trucks... Well stronger 5 lug offered at least...

I just went over this with someone else in detail if you can find the recent thread from the last few days...

zap

Still keeping the LS there. So far the only half decent LS I like is the G80 you find in late model GMs. It will lock, just takes awhile.

Btp4

Zap, where did you find the parts to make.your rear a locker ? I'm looking to do the same in my 8.8 rear . 4.6l 2wd

zap

Got mine off of summit racing. It's a Lock Right locker made by Richmond gear. It cost me $330 after shipping. The link lifted97 posted is the right part, but only works with those who have open rear differentials (1822 if I remember correctly). Now if you'd like to save a buck or two and don't mind going Australian, Aussie makes the exact same locker setup for $280 minus shipping where for the Lock Right the best price I've found so far is $305 without shipping. The Aussie locker is the same design nearly identical from the carrier to the driver to the springs and pins. The only reason I know about Aussie is because there is no Lock Right (only a Powertrax No-Slip) for the 8.25, 28 spline axle found under many Durangos, Dakotas, and XJ Cherokees where Aussie makes one and even has a 8.25/Dana 30 combo for less than the Powertax system for the 8.25 (handy if your a Cheap Cherokee owner like me).

Install is fairly easy, I didn't find this out until about 3 hours later but a tornado touched down about 4 miles from me and while I was trying to get it done I had rain coming in my shop sideways, so between trying to keep my workspace dry, blocking the rain with a piece of plywood, and a power outage I didn't manage to screw anything up. Put the rear axle on jack stands, remove wheels and calipers (if you have them). Drain diff, remove cover, use brake cleaner to get the oil off the carrier so you don't make a mess and remove the old gasket. Unbolt the pinion, slide it out. Push the axle shafts in, remove C-clips and pull axle shafts out just enough to disengage the splines. Then you can remove the spiders and the side gears leaving you an empty carrier. Then you pop in one new side gear, add the C-clip, add the driver using grease to hold them together. Then the other side gear and driver (no c-clip) and push the axle shaft back in. The last bit is the trickiest, shimmy the C-clip on there then all you have left is to install the 4 springs/pins. Then reinstall the pinion shaft, put some RTV around the housing, bolt it back up, refill with oil (new oil), put your wheels and calipers back on, check for leaks, go have fun.

Might as well throw in a video comparing the locker in my truck (as in my actual truck) to the G80 in my mom's Trailblazer:

Danruff93

How do u tell what spline u have?
I got a 8.8 rear 2000 xlt 4x4 4.6