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To anti-seize or not to anti-seize

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Old 08-29-2014, 01:39 PM
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^what blupupher said, I don't use anti-sieze, neverhad a problem on any truck ive owned without it either. and brunettes lol

Last edited by Jefk; 09-02-2014 at 06:40 PM.
Old 08-29-2014, 01:51 PM
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Question: why not use anti-seize but use like 32 lbs. of pressure to account for inaccurate readings . I read on some site(i want to say the timesert site but not sure) that said these heads withstood 100lbs and didn't break.
Old 08-29-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by me1234
Question: why not use anti-seize but use like 32 lbs. of pressure to account for inaccurate readings . I read on some site(i want to say the timesert site but not sure) that said these heads withstood 100lbs and didn't break.
Cause if you use that much torque then the threads will be damaged and the plugs Wil either 1. Not come out or 2. Never go back in
Old 08-29-2014, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by me1234
Question: why not use anti-seize but use like 32 lbs. of pressure to account for inaccurate readings . I read on some site(i want to say the timesert site but not sure) that said these heads withstood 100lbs and didn't break.
Problem is with the anti-zeize, your not getting a good torque reading either way. Your calibrated wrench may say your at 28 ft/lbs, and on a dry plug you are within I think +/- 2-3% of that, but the coated plug could be up to 30% off + or - (from what I have read, no documentation to back it up with off hand).

I read the 100 ft/lb deal somewhere too, but not sure where.

edit: also, looking into it, seems your supposed to use less torque when using anti-seize. Looking into why.

Last edited by blupupher; 08-29-2014 at 02:11 PM.
Old 08-29-2014, 02:01 PM
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http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm

#51 is where you read 100ft/pounds.
Old 08-29-2014, 03:18 PM
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Well boys, a bit different, but related spark plug issue - most people are saying use Motocraft, but they're no longer USA made, are they? One old boy said in 40 years of changing plugs, his new Motocraft plugs had a bad plug and he'd never seen that before. Hecho en Mehico he said, and quality didn't seem as good. Oh me, wha' say ye? NGK?
Old 08-29-2014, 03:58 PM
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That is what I used is the NGK TR55IX.
Old 08-29-2014, 05:49 PM
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We used Anti Sieze on almost any thread that was not meant to be locked down; i.e. head bolts/studs, flexplate bolts, etc. Because of the clamp style tie rod ends we used it there, on lug nuts, and high temp on exhaust bolts. I Had one of my "superiors" tell me that doing that on lug nuts would cause the wheel to fly off........hmmm, over 14 years of doing that and not one single wheel flying off.

About the torque being off, there are different types of anti seize. Some are specifically designed for torque applications and heat ranges. While some will argue one way or the other, it still comes down to personal preference. Just like the black whole arguments of 5.0 vs Eco. If you want to use it, then do so responsibly. Don't glob it on there thinking more is better. That crap spreads everywhere.
Old 08-30-2014, 12:32 AM
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I've had a couple of mechanics tell me the problem isn't the threads of the plug seizing to the aluminum head. They claim that when there's a problem, it's because of carbon build-up on the portion of the plug that extends beyond the bottom of the head, into the combustion chamber. That build-up prevents the plug from being backed out.
If you do use anti seize, don't put it on the bottom couple of threads so that it can't get on the electrode when trying to get it started in the threads of the head, which can cause a misfire.
Old 08-30-2014, 09:50 AM
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Green '01. Im not questioning what you said it just does not make sense to me that if you put seize on the bottom threads it will cause a misfire. How?


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