cashel

I've got a 2001 F150 Screw with a 6" Fabtech + 3" body lift running Toyo 38x14.5x16 tires on 16x10 wheels with ~4.5" backspacing.

About a year ago I replaced the following (as maintenance) + a broken driver CV axle (from yanking out buried a jeep):

• Upper control arms + ball joints
• Lower ball joints
• Inner/Outer tie rods - Trimmed the outer tie rods 3/8" as specified in the Fabtech instructions.
• Idler arm
• Pitman arm

Chose 'Budget' parts over 'Premium' parts at AutoZone, having done this several times before without any issue installing or aligning.

Alignment shop was unable to align the truck, suggesting trimming another 3/8" off the driver side outer tie rod, did that, and no change. Below are the alignment specs of the truck before parking it for almost a year:



Fast forward to 2-3 weeks ago, and I installed a better driver tie rod set from RockAuto (trimming the outer 3/8" just once), took it to the alignment shop, and they weren't able to align it, blaming it on the upper control arms. I replaced the upper control arms with better Moogs from RockAuto. Below are the latest alignment specs from the alignment shop (I believe they said the 'Before' is what it currently is, NOT after):



The steering wheel is still off +1/2 turn on the right with the truck centered. The truck pulls hard to the left and feels off while turning and driving.

At this point they don't know what to do, and didn't charge for the alignment. I've setup an appointment for a shop to look at it (Jeeper's Den for anybody in the Orlando, FL area), but they aren't going to be able to get to it until the 18th, and I'd like to have it fixed by then.

Based on the above, what could be causing all of this?

Collin

38s on 1/2ton ifs.. time for sas bud

cashel

Don't I know it :/. SAS is in the plans now that the truck isn't a DD, but that's still at least a year+ off, so IFS it is until then.

Edit: I should add, I've done this sort of front suspension maintenance + alignment without any trouble several times before from this alignment shop. Sure, everything wears out a lot faster from these heavy tires, but they shouldn't be preventing the truck from being aligned properly.

Collin

Try a different shop perhaps.

Collin

Is there any play in the idler arm or steering box?

cashel

Took the truck to another shop and they seem to have gotten rid of a lot of play, but the truck pulls worse than ever (you can hear tires screech while driving), and they said there were two issues that they could see:

The 'back' passenger camber adjust bolt that bolts the UCA to the frame wasn't turning properly (or at all), and so they weren't able to adjust it properly?

They also complained about not being able to adjust the toe on the drivers side due to those tie rods being maxed out (these are the 'premium' replacements I just installed).

I ordered new adjustment bolts because they're cheap and these have ~200k on them, so I figured why not. Regarding the toe, they're saying the tie rods are maxed out - does this mean I've possibly cut too much, or that perhaps I've cut too little from the outer tie rod?

[MENTION=47760]Collin[/MENTION], I noticed the idler arm had worked itself loose when I was under the truck ~2 weeks ago for the first time in a year, otherwise the joint seems fine, and the steering box also seems tight (or is bolted tight anyway). Thoughts?

Collin

I'd put the front in the air and start checking everything with a pry bar. Something's gotta be a tiny bit loose and the 38s would magnify the play I would think..

cashel

Will do. I should be getting the camber bolts in tomorrow (I love Amazon Prime!) so I'll check everything when installing them.

Could wheel bearings have any effect on this? They're really the only thing that hasn't been replaced, though I don't seem to recall there being very much, if any, play on them when I checked ~ a year ago.

Collin

They could if they are badly worn out