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AC 101 ..... Advice

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Old Apr 18, 2022 | 03:55 PM
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Default AC 101 ..... Advice

Hi Guy's,
2001 F150 Screw 4x4 Lariat. Before we start I am no AC expert.
I had the AC system serviced last Fall when I originally purchased the truck, Schrader valve was replaced, charged up. Seemed fine until now. But one doesn't use the AC much in the cold months.
Apparently i have a leak, because the AC does not cool now. The compressor clutch does kick on and then quickly kicks off again, cycles just like that.
I assume it's low on Freon again?

Is this a DIY type of thing? I'm assuming I need to pinpoint the leak.
Any particular areas to look at to inspect for a leak? Common issues for this year and model?
Any "How to's" out there I should read or watch?

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Old Apr 18, 2022 | 03:58 PM
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no its not a DIY job unfortunately
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Old Apr 18, 2022 | 04:03 PM
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If you have a black light you could look for the fluorescent dye around all points of the system. If anything lights up that's your leak.
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Old Apr 18, 2022 | 06:03 PM
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My 03 does the same thing just about every other year. Leak? I think there is one built into it, LOL. Anyway, I've had an AC charge hose for probably 25 years, just buy a can of the AC refrigerant and follow the instructions. I think they even have ones nowadays that you just hook the hose on, charge the system and you are good to go.
Things to note - engine at normal operating temp, turn the AC on full blast, highest settings while doing this charging. I just did mine last weekend because I kept hearing a stumble in the engine, turns out it is the AC compressor going off and on every 20 or 30 seconds. Charged the system and all good now, especially with the freezing cold coming out of the vents now!
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Old Apr 18, 2022 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by COStruck
If you have a black light you could look for the fluorescent dye around all points of the system. If anything lights up that's your leak.
Agreed, no reason why it can't be a DIY job. My 15 yr old did it with his 2000 XJ and my then 15 year old did it with his 98 Blazer. There are plenty of kits out there that come with the dye and the black light/glasses for it. The biggest thing we did first since we knew the systems were empty (took to local shop to reclaim the freon) was pull a vacuum on it and let it sit for a couple of hours. If it held, no "leaks", if it dropped down, then we knew we had a leak somewhere. Both vehicles were bought without working AC, oldest son ended up changing out his compressor. Both did the work themselves. Easy enough to do and saved them quite a bit of money while teaching them how to work on it.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 11:00 AM
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Good stuff, thanks for the replies. I know I could just take it to my mechanic and he would be more than happy to charge it up and or do a leak down test.
I am somewhat mechanically minded, maybe just enough to be dangerous LOL, but I have never really had the chance to work on a AC system before. Instead of making my mechanic wealthier, at least for now, I would like to try and see if I can figure this out.
I know the deal of buying a can of Freon from Walmart and plugging it in, but there is more to it than that, I would imagine, or I am making it seem harder than it really is?
I know I dont have the AC pressure gauges nor a reclamation unit handy and all that jazz..
I do believe the compressor is working, or it did last fall, and is doing the clutch kick on, kick off cycle. Now I am assuming the compressor is ok, it could still be having issues.

I am happy to hear your boy's took on that challenge and worked it out. I know you said that your oldest changed out the compressor, but what did the other boy have to do to fix his issue?

Last edited by WithinU; Apr 19, 2022 at 11:03 AM.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 11:08 AM
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We didn't have the tools to do it either but figured why not buy our own as it was most likely going to be used more than once in the house, so I picked this up:
Amazon Amazon

Youngest needed to get his freon reclaimed since it still had some in it. Once that was done, we used the vacuum pump to pull vacuum and test for leaks. His held overnight so we charged it up and it's been working since. Guessing it was probably the original from the factory, and with it being 21 years old when we bought it, it just wasn't working like it should.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_H
We didn't have the tools to do it either but figured why not buy our own as it was most likely going to be used more than once in the house, so I picked this up: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Funny you posted that link. I was actually looking at those yesterday.
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Old Apr 19, 2022 | 04:22 PM
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First, if system low, or no gas in system, there's a leak.
If you want to do it on the cheap, if you have pressure in the system, spray soap/water solution on the components and see if any bubbles.
If no gas in system, rather than having gas go into the atmosphere, you can add compressed air through the gauge set to get pressure before
spraying the solution, but don't engage the compressor with no gas in system. If the evap is leaking, you'll need a sniffer to check, or if large
leak, you might hear the air escaping.
After all done, vacuum the system for >30 minutes, then let it sit to see if vacuum drops, if it doesn't, no leak.
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Old Apr 21, 2022 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by WithinU
Hi Guy's,
2001 F150 Screw 4x4 Lariat. Before we start I am no AC expert.
I had the AC system serviced last Fall when I originally purchased the truck, Schrader valve was replaced, charged up. Seemed fine until now. But one doesn't use the AC much in the cold months.
Apparently i have a leak, because the AC does not cool now. The compressor clutch does kick on and then quickly kicks off again, cycles just like that.
I assume it's low on Freon again?

Is this a DIY type of thing? I'm assuming I need to pinpoint the leak.
Any particular areas to look at to inspect for a leak? Common issues for this year and model?
Any "How to's" out there I should read or watch?
I fix 3 to 5 of these a year. Doesn’t matter what make or model the o-rings at every connector needs to be replaced. Every hose connection, bulk head connections, Meter device connections, coil connections, and compressor connections. There is 8-12 of them.
after that you need to pressurize with dry nitrogen and pull a vacuum to 500 microns. If you don’t have those tools just replace all the o-rings and then take it to the shop and they will do the rest. I would replace the compressor while your at it the leak allows moisture to get it and it makes acid. Rock Auto has good units I’ve installed at least 8 from Rock Auto.
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