Hi everyone I just had a question about ABS pumps, I have a 2002 Ford F150 FX4 4.6 motor and 220k miles, my abs light came on a while back, I ran a code scan and got the code C1095 = ABS pump, no other codes come up, and after reading a ton of forums and using the Ford shop manuals and electrical manual that I bought on ebay when I first purchased the truck (invaluable), to perform all possible pinpoint tests and resistance tests, I've also come to the conclusion it is the abs pump. The symptoms are when I first start the truck, as soon as I turn the ignition, the abs light as well as all the other dash lights come on, as normal, then the abs light goes out, then 2 sec after the engine is running, I hear a light thump, and the abs light comes on, but if I start the truck with my foot on the brake pedal, no abs light comes on at all regardless of time, until I remove my foot from the pedal, then I hear a quick, lite, thump, and abs light comes on, unlike alot of other people who have had ABS issues, I dont have the sagging brake pedal to the floor issue or have I ever noticed the pump continously running, but thats not to say it didnt happen and burn out my pump, and I just never noticed, and I have no break fluid leaks as well, and my fluid level is good, my brake pedal has always been solid. The Ford manual says the abs does a self checks when the truck is initially started and some time again, after the truck has driven so many miles, so thats why my abs light comes on rite away when I start the truck, the issue exists as soon as the first self check is initiated. I also checked the resistance on all my abs wheel sensors (1 on each front wheel, and 1 in the center of the rear axle), and all are working fine. I went ahead and purchased a new abs pump from a junkyard through ebay, and it arrived today, I couldn't afford to buy one from ford ($997.00) for just the pump and the junkyard version came with the abs pump, abs module and abs mounting bracket all together in one piece, these 3 parts from Ford would cost me over $2000.00, brand new of course, but not including installation. So before I start dismantling my abs pump and module from my truck, my question is, is it possible for me to unplug the harness from my existing module, which is still in my truck and is connected to my existing abs pump and brake lines, and simply plug the harness into the new module and pump, which has not been installed in the truck, just for a minute, or even a few seconds, to test them to make sure they work? My concern in doing this, is, since there will not be any break lines or brake fluid connected to the pump I'm testing, do I risk damaging the new pump and or module? even if its only for a few seconds? Also since I don't want to risk damaging any of the electrical system in my truck, could I simply just run a pos / neg wire from an external car battery on a workbench, to the hot and ground wires on the side of the pump, (disconnecting the plug on the pump, that connects it to the module of course, in order to separate the two and not risk damaging the module), to confirm the pump runs, without it being connected to my trucks system? and does it need the module connected to activate the pump? Also what should I actually hear when the pump is running, just the normal humming of a running pump or should it pulse like in a hard braking situation? I just want to confirm it works before I go through the hassle of taking mine apart, the truck is my daily driver to work, so I'm trying to minimize my down time, and I have driven for a while apparently without abs, I didnt know the system was completly disabled, just thought it was a sensor, but since I have to get the truck inspected this month and it will not pass inspection with the abs light on, and it is my daily drive, Im trying to get this fixed for my own saftey on the road.
I also want to Thank you ahead of time for your help and advice, and I appreciate all the advice and help the experienced Ford owners offer, Thanks again.

 

I have had no experience with a 2002 system but have some experience with a 2011. If you do not have a scan tool with ABS bleed capability then you would be well advised to have a professional with the proper equipment and knowledge install and bleed the system.
The old school pump the pedal and crack the bleeder valve won't work with a modern ABS system.
Scan tools with ABS capability are available for around $100 and up

 

Old thread, I know.... BUT, does anyone know the correct impedance on a 2002 F-150 ABS motor in the non-energized mode ??? Have seen anywhere from .3 to 1.0 ohms, but would like to know the correct impedance please.